{"title":"Beginner's Plants","description":"\u003cp\u003eWe often get asked which carnivorous plants are the easiest to grow. While many carnivorous plants are easy to grow, here is a selection of the best beginner's plants. These will thrill and delight anyone new to the hobby! Better still, these plants will come potted in the perfect, custom soil blend for each plant and won’t need to be repotted for a few years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe suggest reading our book, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/products\/the-revised-savage-garden?_pos=1\u0026amp;_sid=a25d2d848\u0026amp;_ss=r\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"The Revised Savage Garden\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eThe Revised Savage Garden\u003c\/a\u003e, for even more information and helpful tips on how to make your carnivorous plant garden thrive. You can also follow us on \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=wsbw1kwfxlsuzi7n\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube Channel\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e for lots of informative videos on care. \u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-narrow-leaf-deluxe-potted","title":"Drosera capensis 'narrow leaf' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than \u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e.  These plants are easy to grow, rewarding and will grow in a variety of conditions.  They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill or under lights. They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will even take a brief freeze with the leaves dying back but the plants regrowing readily from the roots in spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the most typical form of \u003ci\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/i\u003e; the leaves are thin and delicate looking with red tentacles tipped in mucilage. The pink flowers unfurl off of long, arching scapes. Cape Sundews catch many gnats, fruit flies and occasionally house flies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":7713818437,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_capensis_narrow_sundew.jpg?v=1785873065"},{"product_id":"the-revised-savage-garden","title":"Book: The Revised Savage Garden","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePeter D'Amato's award winning guide on how to grow carnivorous plants is hands-down the most comprehensive guide and the number one bestselling bible to these fascinating oddities.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeautiful, exotic, and surprisingly easy to grow, flesh-eating plants thrive indoors and out, in a wide variety of climates.  Whether you're a beginner with your first Venus flytrap or an expert looking for the latest specimen, this book covers everything you need to create and nurture your very own little garden of horrors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis new edition is fully revised to include the latest developments and discoveries in the carnivorous plant world, making it the most accurate and up to date book of its kind.  Now with 48 more pages and lots more photos, mostly taken by our own Damon Collingsworth!\u003c\/p\u003e\nThis updated edition covers changes in soil and fertilizer products, water quality updates, advances in artificial lighting, new information on transplanting, pot sizes, and plant grooming, and the many incredible new species of carnivorous plants that have been discovered and hybridized, including a dozen new sun pitchers and over 50 tropical pitcher plants.  It also includes the metric system for our carnivorous plant friends abroad!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThis book is a great gift for anyone new to the hobby or if you are interested in learning more about the different species of carnivorous plants. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eWinner of The American Horticultural Society's Book Award\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\"The Savage Garden is a wonderful book.\" - Martha Stewart\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\"Five Stars\" - Amazon.com\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\"An Exhaustive Work\" - The Los Angeles Times\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\"Stunning\" - Science News\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\"This book is a steal at this price\" - The Richmond Times-Dispatch\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Random House","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":10018767557,"sku":"","price":21.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Book_the_Revised_Savage_Garden.jpg?v=1788822700"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-sanguinea","title":"Nepenthes sanguinea Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes sanguinea\u003c\/em\u003e is a vigorous, fast growing Malaysian species. It has large, plump pitchers up to a foot tall with a big oval mouth and a large, upturned lid. This is a wonderful, easy species and a great beginner plant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are a single clone from tissue culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":10581045829,"sku":"","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_sanguinea.heic?v=1785868774"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia flava\u003c\/i\u003e, the Yellow trumpet, is the most striking and elegant American pitcher plant species.  Old plants can produce pitchers almost three feet tall with wide mouths and beautiful big lids. It comes in seven official color varieties. The flowers are yellow with long petals and an unusual fragrance similar to bearded iris.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are a mix of seed-grown and divisions in a few different \u003cem\u003eflava \u003c\/em\u003eforms, but mainly the iconic lime green color with a red-blotched throat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":41035218944160,"sku":"FLAV1","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":11022928901,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":14972229451811,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":56762181550240,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788550235"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-judith-hindle-potted","title":"Sarracenia x 'Judith Hindle' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e x 'Judith Hindle' is one of the most beautiful cultivars yet to be produced. Alan Hindle bred and grew this plant in England many years ago. He sent a division to California Carnivores, and Peter registered it, naming it after Alan's wife.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe compact pitchers have a wildly undulating lid and start green, dappled in whites and yellows. As they age, they transform into deep, dark red. This is probably the most popular of the hundreds of Sarracenia in our collection!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJudith Hindle's parents were two different clones of \u003ci\u003eS. (purpurea x flava) x leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e. It is one of the few \u003ci\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/i\u003e in tissue culture, so now everyone can have one! If you only grow one American pitcher plant, this should be the one. These are tissue culture plants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":39817909633184,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":40530474336416,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":42522012745888,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":52988780970144,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_x_Judith_Hindle.png?v=1788542032"},{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-alba-narrow-leaf-deluxe-potted","title":"Drosera capensis 'alba narrow leaf' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese beautiful sundews \u003ci\u003e(Drosera capensis)\u003c\/i\u003e are the albino form of the Cape Sundew. 'Alba' lacks red pigment (anthocyanin), so its tentacles aren't red, and the flowers are white. Grow it next to the red Cape Sundew or a red \u003ci\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/i\u003e for a stunning contrast!  Cape Sundews catch gnats, fruit flies, and occasional house flies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e. These plants are easy to grow and rewarding and will grow in various conditions. They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill, or under lights. They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will briefly freeze with the leaves dying back, but the plants regrow readily from the roots in spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":10985904325,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_capensis_alba_sundew.jpg?v=1785873106"},{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-wide-leaf-deluxe-potted","title":"Drosera capensis 'wide leaf' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is probably Damon's favorite cape sundew! Peter sold him one at a flea market when Damon was a little boy and it is the plant that got himinto carnivorous plants! We're still selling this easy to grow beauty; it has very wide leaves which make it look a bit more robust than the other clones we sell. A perfect first plant for anyone!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e.  These plants are easy to grow, rewarding and will grow in a variety of conditions.  They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill or under lights. They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will even take a brief freeze with the leaves dying back but the plants regrowing readily from the roots in spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":10985966405,"sku":"","price":12.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Drosera_capensis_wide_leaf_sundew.png?v=1785873047"},{"product_id":"drosera-dichotoma-giant-deluxe-potted","title":"Drosera dichotoma 'Giant' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eDrosera dichotoma\u003c\/i\u003e 'Giant' is a stunning plant! It grows very large; we have old clumps that are three feet across. It has olive to bronze leaves with pale tentacles that eadult reach over one foot in length, perfect in the bog garden or a large hanging bowl.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen young, the leaves form simple fork shapes but mature leaves will display the intricate branching shown in the photos. It can take two or more years depending on growing conditions to start branching like this. But once it does, it can fork from four to twelve times as the diameter of the leaves grows wider and wider! The larger the pot, the more massive the plants will be! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera dichotoma is a forked-leaf sundew that has thick black roots from which long, thin petioles arise. The leaves branch into two points first and as they mature will branch from four to twelve points. The leaves of dichotoma ‘Giant’ can be up to 2’ in diameter. The plant spread into massive clumps. Drosera dichotoma is a hardy and easy plant that will often regrow from the roots if killed by a freeze or other mishap. Most forms of dichotoma in cultivation are sterile or have self-incompatible flowers. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They can also regrow from the roots after a freeze. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":10986163653,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_dichotoma_Giant_Sundew.jpg?v=1785872741"},{"product_id":"6-plant-deluxe-beginners-bog-kit","title":"6 Plant Deluxe Beginner’s Bog Kit","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is a great kit to make your very own container planting of a few different kinds of temperate carnivorous plants. These plants will enjoy being grown outdoors, in many areas and will catch tons of flies, yellow jackets, and gnats. Our kit is great if you are new to carnivorous plants, want a showpiece for your garden, or just want to get planty!\u003cstrong\u003e And, we will ship this kit for free!\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you order this kit in the summer, it’s best to place it in full morning sun outside, where it will be protected from the afternoon sun a bit, just to reduce the shock to the plants. By the next year, they’ll be fully acclimated and will not need as much protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe send you a 12 x 5 inch terracotta plastic pot, XX-large water saucer, two bags of peat and perlite mix (premixed), a little long-fibered moss to the cover holes on the bottom of the pot, and a selection of temperate plants. The plants we send vary by month depending on what we have available but in general, you will receive a mix of:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVenus flytraps \u003ci\u003e(Dionaea)\u003c\/i\u003e, American Pitcher Plants \u003ci\u003e(Sarracenia)\u003c\/i\u003e, and temperate sundews \u003ci\u003e(Drosera)\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe send an assortment of plants depending on the season and what looks the best! We send you plants either potted or in plugs based on availability. \u003cstrong\u003eWe cannot customize these collections.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDaniela will walk you through building your own bog and care instructions in this video:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/VbGjXvoH7tE\" title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eSarracenia will grow tall modified leaves, pitchers, that vary greatly in size and shape by the hybrid or species of Sarracenia. Each plant grows many pitchers from the rhizome in the soil over the spring, summer and fall. These are temperate plants like Venus flytraps, growing actively in the warm sunny months of the year and dying back to the rhizome in winter. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eDrosera are found all over the world in many different forms, they have sticky leaves that catch small flying bugs. They have high leaf turnover, dying back frequently but growing lots of new leaves. Many of the temperate Drosera sent in this kit will die back to a hibernaculum in the soil in winter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Full sun. These plants require lots of direct sun to grow and produce leaves. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and fully acclimated. Thead can be grown indoors and on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the light depending on the light and a 10-12 hour day. These plants generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. These are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores Peat and Perlite Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. Repot, dividing out plants and refreshing the peat and perlite, every 3 years in January or winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/strong\u003e These plants\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Maxsea Fertilizer\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube \" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11131494085,"sku":"","price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/6_Plant_Deluxe_Beginner_s_Bog_Kit.jpg?v=1788818699"},{"product_id":"3-plant-beginners-bog-kit","title":"3 Plant Beginner’s Bog Kit","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis is a great kit to make your very own container planting of a few different kinds of temperate carnivorous plants. These plants will enjoy being grown outdoors, in many areas and will catch tons of flies, yellow jackets, and gnats. Our kit is great if you are new to carnivorous plants, want a fun planter for your garden, or just want to get planty! \u003cstrong\u003eAnd we will ship this kit for free! \u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"UTF-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you order this kit in the summer, it’s best to place it in full morning sun outside, where it will be protected from the afternoon sun a bit, just to reduce the shock to the plants. By the next year, they’ll be fully acclimated and will not need as much protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe send you an 8x6 inch plastic pot, XX-large water saucer, our peat moss and perlite mix \u003cspan\u003e(premixed), a little long-fibered sphagnum moss to cover holes on the bottom of the pot, and a selection of temperate plants. The plants we send vary by month depending on what we have available but in general, you will receive: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne Venus Flytrap \u003ci\u003e(Dionaea)\u003c\/i\u003e, one American Pitcher Plant \u003ci\u003e(Sarracenia),\u003c\/i\u003e and one Sundew \u003ci\u003e(Drosera)\u003c\/i\u003e. \u003cspan\u003eWe send you plants either potted or in plugs based on availability. \u003cstrong\u003eWe cannot customize these collections.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDaniela will walk you through building your own bog and care instructions in this video:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/VbGjXvoH7tE\" height=\"315\" width=\"560\" allowfullscreen=\"\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture\" frameborder=\"0\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eSarracenia will grow tall modified leaves, pitchers, that vary greatly in size and shape by the hybrid or species of Sarracenia. Each plant grows many pitchers from the rhizome in the soil over the spring, summer and fall. These are temperate plants like Venus flytraps, growing actively in the warm sunny months of the year and dying back to the rhizome in winter. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eDrosera are found all over the world in many different forms, they have sticky leaves that catch small flying bugs. They have high leaf turnover, dying back frequently but growing lots of new leaves. Many of the temperate Drosera sent in this kit will die back to a hibernaculum in the soil in winter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Full sun. These plants require lots of direct sun to grow and produce leaves. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and fully acclimated. Thead can be grown indoors and on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the light depending on the light and a 10-12 hour day. These plants generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. These are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores Peat and Perlite Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. Repot, dividing out plants and refreshing the peat and perlite, every 3 years in January or winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/strong\u003e These plants\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Maxsea Fertilizer\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube \" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11131624453,"sku":"","price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/3_Plant_Beginner_s_Bog_Kit.jpg?v=1788816792"},{"product_id":"drosera-filiformis-florida-giant","title":"Drosera filiformis \"Florida Giant\" Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003eDrosera filiformis\u003c\/i\u003e var. \u003ci\u003efiliformis\u003c\/i\u003e comes from the Florida Panhandle. This thread-leaf sundew can grow up to twenty inches tall!  The long, thin, thread like leaves are covered in red tentacles which glitter and glisten in the sun; making it a lovely addition to any bog garden. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11134421637,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_filiformis_Florida_Giant_sundew.jpg?v=1785872710"},{"product_id":"drosera-intermedia-x-capillaris-deluxe-potted","title":"Drosera intermedia x capillaris Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eWe love the stunning \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eintermedia\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003ecapillaris\u003c\/em\u003e! This little sundew boasts temperate parents, making it a perfect year-round outdoor plant in areas with mild winters. These delicate plants will be 2” tall and wide at maturity. Each paddle-shaped leaf is candy-apple-red and covered in glistening drops of sticky dew. They are unbelievably beautiful, especially when grown en masse.\u003cem\u003e \u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 1-2” in size. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS SEPTEMBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera intermedia x capillaris forms a lovely rosette of thin petioles with rounded leaves covered in dew. These will grow to 2-3” and form clumps over time. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. This is a sterile hybrid and will not produce viable seed but it easily propagated from leaf cuttings. Drosera have thin black roots.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors and it must receive a winter dormancy; the dormant buds often die if kept too warm! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. This species particularly likes water-logged conditions and do best in non-draining container. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave or go dormant afterwards. I\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003ef you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. In winter these plants will die back to small bud. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11134625605,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_intermedia_x_capillaris_sundew.jpg?v=1791398487"},{"product_id":"drosera-tokaiensis","title":"Drosera tokaiensis Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eDrosera tokaiensis\u003c\/em\u003e was formerly grown as \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003espatulata\u003c\/em\u003e 'Kansai'.  It is a fertile natural hybrid between \u003cem\u003erotundifolia\u003c\/em\u003e and \u003cem\u003espatulata\u003c\/em\u003e from Japan. Some argue that it is a stable species.  Regardless, it is a nice easy sundew with spoon-shaped leaves that flush red in strong light. This sundew tends to forms clumps of charming, dew covered rosettes and flowers readily. \n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 1-2” across.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eT\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003ehis is a rosetted sundew meaning it grows leaves in a round, rosetted pattern. New leaves grow from the crown and older leaves die back, the plant will grow taller on brown stalks with the older leaves building up under the new leaves, forming a tall skirt of old leaves. It is normal for these plants to have high leaf turnover, meaning the leaves die back frequently and new leaves grow in. This is a compact species, usually no larger than 2-3” across. It forms pretty pink flowers and can easily be grown from seed. Sundews have black roots generally, do not be alarmed when you see the roots are black! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown very happily indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. These will do well in a terrarium as long as they can get good light. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are subtropical plants, meaning they grow throughout the year without dormancy requirements and prefer warmer temperatures but can tolerate a brief frost. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 45 degrees - 90F. These plants do appreciate a 10-20 degree drop in temperature at night. They do not need or require a dormancy, making them an ideal houseplant.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11134776325,"sku":"","price":11.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_tokaiensis.jpg?v=1789500496"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-dente","title":"Dionaea m. 'Dente' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eA vicious-looking form of the Venus flytrap, 'Dente' has little shark teeth lining the trap instead of the more typical eyelash-like structures. This classic flytrap cultivar is a beautiful addition to any carnivorous garden and a vigorous plant! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1\" across, t\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003ehe second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":11175174469,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Dente_Flytrap_traps.jpg?v=1789769906"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-typical","title":"Dionaea m. Typical Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eEveryone's favorite plant, the Venus Flytrap, is fantastic and easy to grow! Charismatic, beautiful, and voracious bug eaters are really fun to add to your plant collection! These flytraps are the perfect example of what a flytrap should be: bright green petioles and outer traps with cherry-red trap interiors! This is the ideal plant if you’ve always wanted to grow a flytrap! These plants do best outdoors in most places in the summer; be sure to read through the care instructions below. They catch flies, wasps, pill bugs, spiders, and more!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, 1-2\" across, the second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34837655814304,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785876471"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-tina","title":"Pinguicula x 'Tina' BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003ex ‘Tina’ is a cross between \u003cem\u003eagnata \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003ezecheri\u003c\/em\u003e. It is an excellent butterwort for beginners or an exciting addition for the more advanced butterwort collector! It produces lots and lots of round flowers that are light lavender with a darker lavender interior. The large plants have rounded, lime-green leaves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a quarter and will grow to 2-4” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":28233505541,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Tina_Butterwort.jpg?v=1791402052"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-sethos","title":"Pinguicula x 'Sethos' BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis hybrid of \u003cem\u003ePinguicula ehlersae\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003ehas rosettes that are pale white with a pink blush and grow up to 3 inches across! It flowers readily, producing many, many pink flowers with white throats. This versatile and easy-growing plant blooms readily and doesn’t need a succulent winter dormancy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will grow to 2-4” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":29243535301,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Pinguicula_sethos_flower.jpg?v=1788848194"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. It produces large, red petaled flowers that can be as tall as 3 feet!  The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn.  These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring! The pitchers are variable with the lower part of the tubes green, tan or purplish red.  The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column and lid are nearly pure white laced with a network of veins in green to pink to red to purple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions from our botanical collection and there is some variation in color form. \u003cstrong\u003eThe small sized plants are tissue culture plants.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":42057224618144,"sku":"LEUC1","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":7274349002787,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":7274349035555,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":44357458952352,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788545630"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-ventricosa","title":"Nepenthes ventricosa Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes ventricosa\u003c\/em\u003e is possibly the easiest highland species to grow! This is the red form of \u003cem\u003eNepenthes ventricosa\u003c\/em\u003e and it's pitchers have a lovely red peristome. As they grow it's tubby pitchers may be constricted at the waist, turning pale green to red-infused with compact stems. This is the number one choice to try on a windowsill or tank, very easy, vigorous and attractive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants are from tissue culture and are a single clone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Borneo Exotics","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":30375985741859,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_ventricosa_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788850200"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-sawtooth-potted","title":"Dionaea m. ‘Sawtooth' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/em\u003e. 'Sawtooth' is a beautiful cultivar! When grown in full sun the traps are green with dark red interior and the edge of the traps are serrated like a saw.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":32050261786696,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Sawtooth_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785875727"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-lilac-lollipop","title":"Pinguicula “Lilac Lollipop” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cem\u003ecyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e hybrid is perhaps our favorite hybrid that Damon’s ever made. We’ve decided to name this fantastic plant “Lilac Lollipop” in honor of its spectacular lilac flowers!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese little butterworts blush a soft purple when exposed to bright light, like a giant \u003cem\u003ecyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e. It produces so many flowers that are a sweet lavender reminiscent of a violet. We’re head over heels in love with this plant! This is a must have butterwort!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will be 2-4” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346517725344,"sku":"MACY K2","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Pinguicula_Lilac_Lollipop.jpg?v=1788561229"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-garden-kit","title":"3 Pinguicula Windowsill Garden Kit","description":"\u003cp\u003eCreate your own little \u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003egarden with this special kit! We will send you the perfect amount of Ping soil, moss to line the bottom of the pot, a pot with a saucer, and three bare-root butterworts. \u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003ePlease note that these are not customizable, so if you order multiple kits, you may receive duplicate plants\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLine the bottom of the pot with moss, fill it with dirt, press dirt firmly into place, and then very carefully tuck your \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e in. After you arrange your butterworts; find figurines, rocks, shells, or crystals to add your own twist to your \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e garden! This kit makes a wonderful gift and these houseplant pings will thrive on a sunny windowsill indoors year-round! And it ships free!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCheck out this quick, how-to video on building your own windowsill kit:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ciframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/XyILV5HmQHo\" height=\"315\" width=\"560\"\u003e\u003c\/iframe\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":36880486006944,"sku":"","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Windowsill_Kit.jpg?v=1785877949"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-x-st-gaya-potted","title":"Nepenthes x ‘St Gaya’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes \u003c\/em\u003ex ‘St Gaya’ is an interesting hybrid; \u003cem\u003ekhasiana \u003c\/em\u003ex (\u003cem\u003eventricosa \u003c\/em\u003ex \u003cem\u003emaxima\u003c\/em\u003e). This plant will do well indoors, on a sunny windowsill year round but will appreciate heat and humidity as a bonus. One of the fun things about ‘St Gaya’ is the amazing contrast between the outside of the bright red speckled pitchers and the lime green interiors! It also is a vigorous grower and can make tremendously large pitchers quickly. Grown under strong light the leaves will blush a reddish color! This is a perfect beginner plant!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a tissue culture plant. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-90s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":47460924031136,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_St_Gaya_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788849986"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-fine-tooth-x-red-potted","title":"Dionaea m. ‘Fine Tooth x Red’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/em\u003e. ‘Fine tooth x Red’ is a lovely red tinted trap with classic Venus flytrap coloration!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":41242379550880,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Fine_Tooth_Red_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785876157"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-inermis-x-bongso-small-potted","title":"Nepenthes inermis x bongso Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"UTF-8\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eNepenthes inermis \u003c\/em\u003ex\u003cem\u003e bongso\u003c\/em\u003e displays unique pitcher shaped and deep red coloration in mature pitchers. These are vigorous but slightly smaller plants and they are the perfect plant for a windowsill or terrarium! \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThese are from a carefully selected clone in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3897.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube \" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Borneo Exotics","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":41938426986656,"sku":"BE-3897","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/BE_Nepenthes_inermis_x_bongso_BE3897.jpg?v=1791483135"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-hanka-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x 'Hanka' BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis beautiful hybrid of \u003cem\u003ezecheri\u003c\/em\u003e and \u003cem\u003erotundiflora\u003c\/em\u003e has spectacular, ruffle edged, purple flowers. Each rosette can blush pink when grown in strong light, perfectly accenting the cheerful purple flowers. The flowers are exceptional! The perfectly ruffled, large petals are unlike any other hybrid we’ve seen!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will grow to 2-3” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42376675590304,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Hanka_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788848249"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-cyclosecta-x-gigantea-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula cyclosecta x gigantea BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula cyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003egigantea\u003c\/em\u003e is a killer hybrid between two of our favorite plants! The rounded, upturned leaves are purple-tinged and large; they almost seem to glow with their soft purple dewiness! The flowers are rounded, open, and bright purple! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a quarter and will be 3-4” across at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING. SEE THE FINAL PHOTO FOR AN EXAMPLE OF THIS WINTER SUCCULENT GROWTH. \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil, all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45411832234144,"sku":null,"price":27.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_cyclosecta_x_gigantea_Flower.jpg?v=1791401272"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-piggyback-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Piggyback” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003ex “Piggyback” is a miniature hybrid with beautiful pale green rosettes and cute pointed leaves with gently rolled margins. Under high light the rosettes can blush a soft pink! This one is a bloomer and under ideal conditions it should be under almost constant bloom with its cute little pink flowers! Ideal for ping rocks and terrariums! These plants were specifically bred to stay petite!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a dime and will grow to 1-2” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47111131398304,"sku":"EMMM K2","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Piggyback_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788804667"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-mammoth-potted","title":"Dionaea m. ‘Mammoth’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. ‘Mammoth’ is a stunning plant that we’re thrilled to offer! This beauty results from breeding three giant cultivars, so you know it will be a showstopper. With tons of traps in low rosettes, so far, even in dormancy, this plant is a real eye-catcher. When grown in bright light, the traps blush a gorgeous red down the mid-rib, making it even more mesmerizing! You won’t want to miss out on this fantastic plant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" across, the second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48084617855136,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_mammoth_venus_flytrap.jpg?v=1785876070"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-alata-potted","title":"Sarracenia alata Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia alata\u003c\/em\u003e, the Pale Trumpet, has unique, superbly pale yellow, almost pure white flowers.  It has very upright pitchers that are quite variable in both size and coloration. \u003cem\u003eSarracenia alata\u003c\/em\u003e has neatly pointed lids, usually held closely to the mouth with a slightly bulging throat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSmall and Medium sized plants are divisions,  Large and X-Large sized plants are tissue culture plants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52876306317472,"sku":null,"price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":52876306448544,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large TC","offer_id":56948417036448,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56948417069216,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_alata_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788550615"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-moranensis-var-roseii-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula moranensis var. roseii BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eWe are excited to offer these particular \u003cem\u003emoranensis\u003c\/em\u003e because they are so beautiful. \u003cem\u003e Pinguicula moranensis \u003c\/em\u003evar. \u003cem\u003eroseii \u003c\/em\u003ewill blush a deep pink-red when grown under strong light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will grow to 2-4” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52123212742816,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_moranensis_var_roseii_rosettes.jpg?v=1791401890"},{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-vogelgraat","title":"Drosera capensis “Giant Form, Vogelgraat, RSA” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than \u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e.  These plants are easy to grow, rewarding and will grow in a variety of conditions.  They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill or under lights. They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will even take a brief freeze with the leaves dying back but the plants regrowing readily from the roots in spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are plants from Vogelgraat, South Africa and are a nice, wider leaf, giant form. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52213168668832,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_capensis_Giant_Form_Vogelgraat_RSA_sundew.jpg?v=1785872945"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-x-rebecca-soper-potted","title":"Nepenthes x ‘Rebecca Soper’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/em\u003e x ‘Rebecca Soper’ is an easy-to-grow and beautiful hybrid! The leaves are deep and merlot-red, and the pitchers have the same plummy-red coloration. This excellent, lovely, easy-care plant is perfect for beginners and collectors alike!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are a single clone from tissue culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52266207641760,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_Rebecca_Soper_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788850083"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-johanna-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x ‘Johanna’ BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e x ‘Johanna’ is a fantastic hybrid of \u003cem\u003edebbertiana\u003c\/em\u003e and \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e. Both parents lend their charm to this cross with its rounded, pink rosettes and purple flowers with intense yellow throats. When grown under strong lights the rosettes will deepen to a cherry pink!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a quarter and will be 2-3” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"D Flocken","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52370052939936,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Johanna_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788847864"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-rugelii-bay-co-fl-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava v. rugelii “Bay Co, FL” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava \u003c\/em\u003ev.\u003cem\u003e rugelii \u003c\/em\u003eis the classic color form of \u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava. \u003c\/em\u003eA dark blotch punctuates the vibrant, chartreuse pitchers at the throat. The dark red blotch starts as a thin, red line on seedlings and develops at maturity—wide, rounded, lightly undulating lids tower over the huge pitchers. We love this variety; large, lightly ruffly lids and electric green pitchers are always a cheerful harbinger of spring!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants are seed-grown from Bay Co, FL, so there is some variation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large","offer_id":52501872181408,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":52501876867232,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_rugelii_Bay_Co.jpg?v=1788548113"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-agnata-x-potosiensis-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula agnata x potosiensis BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula agnata\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003epotosiensis\u003c\/em\u003e is a winner for the windowsill; growing large pink rosettes with loads of bright, purple flowers! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will grow to 2-3” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52539467727008,"sku":"POVC K2","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_agnata_x_potosiensis_Flower.heic?v=1788849330"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-cuprea-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava var. cuprea Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eflava\u003c\/em\u003e var \u003cem\u003ecuprea\u003c\/em\u003e are absolutely stunning with their tall, slender, red pitchers and deeply coppery lids with green lips. \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eflava\u003c\/em\u003e var \u003cem\u003ecuprea\u003c\/em\u003e is hands down one of our favorite \u003cem\u003eflava\u003c\/em\u003e varieties - they're massive, have gorgeous copper-topped pitchers, and display a stunning array of colors from spring to fall!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are a mix of select seed grown plants and divisions of our botanical collection: the best of the best! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52584583233696,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":52584583266464,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":52584583299232,"sku":null,"price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":52584583332000,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_var._cuprea_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788546432"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-alata-potted","title":"Nepenthes alata Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003ealata\u003c\/em\u003e is a great \u003cem\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/em\u003e for the beginner.  It is an ideal candidate for hanging in a sunny window.  With proper care, it will grow quickly and each pitcher will be bigger than the last as the vine grows longer and longer!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are tissue culture plants from over seas and were not sure if they’re pure \u003cem\u003ealata \u003c\/em\u003eor \u003cem\u003eventrata\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e \u003c\/em\u003ex \u003cem\u003ealata \u003c\/em\u003ebut either way, they’re a beautiful and easy to grow plant!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Agristarts","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52909026377888,"sku":null,"price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_alata.jpg?v=1785870228"},{"product_id":"copy-sarracenia-flava-ornata-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava v. ornata division Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eSome of the most beautiful \u003cem\u003eflava\u003c\/em\u003e in cultivation are the \u003cem\u003eornata\u003c\/em\u003e variety. They have electric yellow pitchers with dark red pinstripes. They emerge in spring with brightly colored pitchers and red venation, and the color deepens over the summer with the venation turning blood-red, almost black, over time! The pitchers are tall with round, oversized lids.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eThese are divisions. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eX-Large divisions aren’t necessarily taller but will have multiple growth points or very chonky rhizomes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":52980533756064,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":52980533788832,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":52980533821600,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":52980535328928,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_flava_v._ornata_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1784145596"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-kaiberdo-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Kaiberdo” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/i\u003ex “Kaiberdo” is our first new introduction for 2026 along with its sibling “Kaiberdon’t.” Damon was super excited to make crosses with ‘Florian’ so that we could create beautiful, compact, little floriferous cultivars like these. “Kaiberdo” is named for Tiffany’s son, she is our mail order queen and we couldn’t do this without her! Like Kai himself, this cross has turned out to be everything we’d hoped for and more! The little rosy, compact rosettes look exactly like hen and chicks echeveria in their succulent phase. The rosy-pink flowers have a neon yellow throat and gently nod, disproportionately large to the plant! Ideal for ping rocks and tea cups.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a dime and will be 1-2” at full growth. These were specifically bred to stay petite and dainty!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53215722995872,"sku":"LAXF K1","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Kaiberdo_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788808412"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-kaiberdon-t-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Kaiberdon’t” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/i\u003ex “Kaiberdon’t” is our first new introduction for 2026 along with its sibling “Kaiberdo.” Damon was super excited to make crosses with ‘Florian’ so that we could create beautiful, compact, little floriferous cultivars like these. “Kaiberdon’t” is named for Tiffany’s son, she is our mail order queen and we couldn’t do this without her! Like Kai himself, this cross has turned out to be everything we’d hoped for and more!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\"Kaiberdon’t” is a sibling to “Kaiberdo” that brings everything to the party that “Kaiberdo” does! In contrast to its sibling, it is a slightly larger plant with greener leaves and paler pink flowers, with an extra yellow, hairy throat. “Kaiberdon’t” is a chipper little plant that’s flowers tend to present their faces up towards the sun. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a dime and will be 1-2” at full growth. These are smaller plants in general, bred on purpose to stay petite!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53215761236128,"sku":"LAXF K2","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Kaiberdont_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788808678"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-lovers-lane-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Lover’s Lane” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e x “Lover’s Lane” is a new introduction for 2026! This floriferous \u003cem\u003emoranensis\u003c\/em\u003e cross is an overachiever when it comes to flowering! The beautiful orchid, pink flowers, rise up off of tall stems from the pink tinted rosettes below. We are beyond excited to see that the leaves of this cross can show notching, which comes from one of the parents in this cross; ‘Dusky Heart’ which is not a trait we thought would  carry through! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a quarter and will be 1-2” at full growth. The first three photos are of our display pot of multiple plants to show the beautiful color and size these plants can achieve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53267907248288,"sku":"MOAD K1","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Lovers_Lane.jpg?v=1788805729"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-large-marge","title":"Pinguicula x “Large Marge” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003ePinguicula x “Large Marge” is a new introduction for 2026! “Large Marge” has big white flowers with the most captivating purple blotches at the throat of the plant that gently flush up the sides of the petals. These plants should be quite large with impressive large rosettes of fleshy leaves! We can’t wait to see just how big this \u003cem\u003egigantea\u003c\/em\u003e hybrid can get! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we ship are about 1” and will be 2-4” at full growth. These plants should be large at full growth in late summer or early fall, but can still have only three to four smaller leaves until July or even August! The first photo is of our display pot of several plants, in more full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56782857797792,"sku":"SUMG K1","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Large_Marge.jpg?v=1788806619"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-green-and-white-potted-copy","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “Green and White” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia leucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e “Green and White” is a classic CalCarn plant! Damon has had this plant since he was a kid! He selected it for its lovely green and white coloring, and while it is not anthocyanin-free, and can have some red coloration, it is very lovely. One of its most noticeable features is that it is the most vigorous \u003cem\u003eleucophylla \u003c\/em\u003ewe’ve ever grown! It produces lots and lots of divisions with ridiculously long rhizomes. It’s a perfect plant for breeding because it can lend vigor to its hybrids and its tall, luminous, green, and white beauty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions. X-large divisions may not be taller than large divisions, but they usually have multiple growth points, so they will grow vigorously and have more pitchers. This is a later-growing species, so you may not see a lot of pitchers until later in fall or early winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":67599965946016,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":67599965978784,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":56877758742688,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56877758775456,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Green_and_White_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1784144090"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-rubra-alabamensis-x-leucophylla-schnells-ghost-x-x-saurus-potted","title":"Sarracenia ( rubra alabamensis x leucophylla ‘Schnell’s Ghost’ ) x ( x ‘Saurus’ ) Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e ( \u003cem\u003erubra\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003ealabamensis\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e ‘Schnell’s Ghost’ ) x ( x ‘Saurus’ )is a show-stopping new hybrid for 2026! \u003cem\u003eSarracenia rubra \u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003ealabamensis \u003c\/em\u003ex \u003cem\u003eleucophylla \u003c\/em\u003e’Schnell’s Ghost’ is a select plant with amazing lemony color and an elongated lid! \u003cspan\u003e‘Saurus’ is a Phil Faulisi creation that needs no introduction. It is widely considered the best and biggest dark red \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003emoorei\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e out there! \u003c\/span\u003eThese plants have combined the best of both parents with profusions of pitchers with exaggerated lids and a crazy array of color! This is one of those fun crosses that has a ton of variability! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese seed-grown plants have insane variability in size, form, and color, no two look the same! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":56963143729312,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":56963143762080,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":56963143794848,"sku":null,"price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":56963143827616,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_rubra_alabamensis_x_leucophylla_Schnell_s_Ghost_x_Saurus_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788559746"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-x-lemon-meringue-x-leucophylla-giant-red-mkl18-x-self-potted-copy","title":"Sarracenia ( x “Lemon Meringue” ) x ( leucophylla “Giant Red MKL18 x self” ) Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e ( x “Lemon Meringue” ) x ( \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e “Giant Red MKL18 x self” ) is a stunning new hybrid for 2026! \u003cem\u003eSarracenia \u003c\/em\u003ex “Lemon Meringue” is one of Damon’s creations known for its lovely, lemony color and exaggerated lid! He’s combined that with a huge, vivid-red \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e and we expect these plants to have nice size, beautiful red and cream coloration and extra beautiful lids!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese seed-grown plants have variability in size, form, and color! X-Large sized plants do not indicate a taller plant, but a plant with multiple growth points.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":56988838461600,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":56988838494368,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58951201456288,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_x_Lemon_Meringue_x_leucophylla_Giant_Red_MKL18_x_self_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788551188"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-hanrahan-x-alata-anthocyanin-free-rc-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “Hanrahan” x alata Anthocyanin-Free RC Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e \"Hanrahan” x \u003ci\u003ealata \u003c\/i\u003eanthocyanin-free is a lovely hybrid; with pitchers all in different stages of color; growing at once! These plants make tall, elegant pitchers with a delicately pointed lips and gently ruffled lids. The colors are creamy-white with red and green venation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Rob Co","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":58004630896800,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":58004630929568,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58004630962336,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Hanrahan_x_alata_Anthocyanin-Free_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1791404846"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-v-rugelii-bob-hanrahan-x-var-ornata-bulloch-co-ga-dg-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava v. rugelii ‘Bob Hanrahan’ x var ornata “Bulloch Co, GA” DG Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava\u003c\/em\u003e v. \u003cem\u003erugelii\u003c\/em\u003e ‘Bob Hanrahan’ is one of the best \u003cem\u003erugelii\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003eof all time; tall, stately green pitchers, a deep-dark throat blotch and the biggest lids we’ve ever seen! The \u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava \u003c\/em\u003evar \u003cem\u003eornata \u003c\/em\u003efrom Bulloch Co are striped with dark red, almost black venation! This cline combines the best of both worlds with tall pitchers, dark venation, large lids and an exaggerated lip!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"David Green","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58120406106272,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58120406139040,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58120406171808,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_v._rugelii_Bob_Hanrahan_x_var_ornata_Bulloch_Co_GA_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788549713"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-emarginata-x-gypsicola-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula emarginata x gypsicola BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula emarginata\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003egypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e is a winner for the windowsill with its pink, sparkling rosettes!  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will grow to 1-2” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring, sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58120692007072,"sku":"POVC K2","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_emarginata_x_gypsicola_Flower.jpg?v=1788849018"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-big-mouth-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Big Mouth” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea muscipula\u003c\/em\u003e “Big Mouth” has great depth of color in the interior of its red traps and thick, wide green petioles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58161632903328,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Big_Mouth.jpg?v=1789771410"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/collections\/Icon_EasyToGrow.jpg?v=1789666441","url":"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/easy-to-grow.oembed?page=5","provider":"California Carnivores","version":"1.0","type":"link"}