{"title":"Featured Products","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese are some of our staff-favorite, highly sought after, beautiful and deadly carnivorous plants! These are the plants that we think everyone should have in their collection!\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"pinguicula-primuliflora","title":"Pinguicula primuliflora BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula primuliflora \u003c\/em\u003eis a popular species in cultivation. In nature, it is found in coastal areas of the Florida panhandle west into Louisiana.  It forms a handsome rosette of pale-green, pointed leaves up to four inches across.  The plants are often found in mostly shaded areas of very wet peat and sphagnum, often along the edges of streams and ponds.  While the plants are short-lived and prone to rot, they spread by producing plantlets at the tips of their leaves.  Keep them shaded from hot sun.  The beautiful flowers have incised petals that are pinkish violet with a white center and a yellow beard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTHESE PLANTS WILL COME BARE ROOT AND NOT IN POTS.  YOU WILL NEED TO POT THEM UP UPON ARRIVAL.  WARM TEMPERATE\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eDO BEST IN OUR PEAT AND PERLITE MIX.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun outdoors\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in at least two inches of distilled or purified water, best grown in a bog garden\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 28 degrees - 100 degrees\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No dormancy needed but may go semi dormant in winter \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":10147231941,"sku":"","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_primuliflora_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788848516"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-robcantleyi","title":"Nepenthes robcantleyi CalCarn Clone TC Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003eNepenthes robcantleyi\u003c\/i\u003e is arguably the most spectacular species of \u003ci\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/i\u003e yet discovered. They have huge pitchers with giant, flared peristomes that are show stoppingly showy! It’s well known for making large pitchers fast, especially with a boost of humidity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese little guys are small sized now, but one things for sure, they'll be giant and amazing when they're grown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants are from our own CalCarn tissue culture lab and are from multiple clones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"X-Small","offer_id":10580491205,"sku":"CANT","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Nepenthes_robcantleyi_CalCarn_Clone.jpg?v=1788851261"},{"product_id":"drosera-regia","title":"Drosera regia Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003eDrosera regia\u003c\/i\u003e, the king sundew, is in a class of its own. This impressive plant is rare in nature—only a few South African colonies are known. It is considered an archaic species, one of the oldest to survive in modern times. The sword-shaped leaves can approach 2 feet in length and can twist their tapered ends around prey. Each leaf is covered in thick globules of mucilage that can overcome even large and powerful insects.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 1-2” tall and will grow taller, with more leaves quickly.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlease note that when purchased in winter, these are just emerging from dormancy and are smaller than they will be at full growth in spring and summer. During this time, they will die back to hibernacula in the soil. \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe King Sundew has large, long, lance-shaped leaves up to two feet long. Older leaves die back frequently, turning black and shrinking, but many new leaves will grow. Plantlets can grow from the roots; these hardy plants will regrow from roots if exposed to a brief freeze.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e \u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Grow on sunny windowsills in direct sun, greenhouses, or a terrarium with fluorescent light. These can be grown outdoors in mild climates as long as plants are protected from extreme temperatures and the roots are kept cool. If grown outdoors, provide bright diffused light or morning sun only. They will do well under grow lights on a 10-12 hour day. Place the lights 6-10” from the plants, depending on the strength of your light. When grown indoors, they are usually 10-14” in size. If your plant is not producing dew, it may need more light. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eWater with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only, as these plants are very sensitive to minerals and salts in their water. Water frequently to keep the plants from drying out, but do not let them sit in the water in the winter months or cool and wet Spring months. Plants can sit in water only during hot summer, but it is best to let them dry out between refilling trays. Always keep plants in water when temperatures are high to help keep the roots cool. They appreciate humidity of at least 50%. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e Daytime temperatures are in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Regia can take temperatures down to 40 degrees, and if they have formed hibernacula, they can tolerate a light freeze, but it is best to protect them. Regia can tolerate brief heatwaves up to 95 as long as the roots are kept cool, they are protected from the full sun, and nighttime temperatures cool down. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e While no dormancy is needed, they will die back to hibernacula in winter if exposed to cooler temperatures in a greenhouse or outdoors. Be sure to water less if your plant dies back. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eKing sundews should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. Our custom Nepenthes soil blend is available to add to your order (this is the appropriate mix for Drosera regia), but you do not need to repot your plant after receiving it from us. Regia do not appreciate repotting but should be moved to a bigger pot after 1-2 years. They prefer a tall pot. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":39942710001824,"sku":"","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_regia_King_Sundew.jpg?v=1785872180"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-cyclosecta","title":"Pinguicula cyclosecta BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula cyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e is probably one of the most beautiful of all the butterworts. It is a miniature species of flat rosettes, which usually get no bigger than a 50-cent piece. When grown in strong light, all of the leaves are actually purple! The metallic purple flowers are born on short scapes and are incredibly cheerful! The flowers are gorgeous, but it's pretty enough to grow just for the leaves! This plant is one of Damon's favorites, and he recommends it to all ping-obsessed growers!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants we are shipping are about the size of a dime and will be 2-3” across at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING. SEE THE FINAL PHOTO FOR AN EXAMPLE OF THIS WINTER SUCCULENT GROWTH. \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil, all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":16280408005,"sku":"CYCLO","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_cyclosecta.jpg?v=1788849197"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-oreophila-potted","title":"Sarracenia oreophila Potted (PERMIT)","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia oreophila\u003c\/em\u003e is nearly extinct in the wild. It looks similar to \u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava\u003c\/em\u003e, producing most of its pitchers in spring and going dormant in late summer.  Pitchers are tall and stately, usually green, but many clones have strong red venation. \u003cem\u003eSarracenia oreophila\u003c\/em\u003e is a species with a greater tolerance for cold. One of the funny, quirky qualities of \u003cem\u003eoreophila\u003c\/em\u003e is that its pitchers can wrinkly in summer, giving it a very unusual appearance! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCalifornia Carnivores can ship this plant outside of California as per Permit Number ESPER0002076, the plant and any resulting seeds or progeny may not be planted on Federal property, these are artificially propagated. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eThe pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 10 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 10 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 10 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 10F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Permit FWS","offers":[{"title":"Small Seed-Grown","offer_id":51014068142240,"sku":"","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":51014068175008,"sku":"","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":47259271233696,"sku":"","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":53215567118496,"sku":null,"price":54.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_oreophila_Pitcher_Plant.heic?v=1788544742"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-rubra-ssp-gulfensis-potted","title":"Sarracenia rubra ssp. gulfensis Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e rubra \u003c\/em\u003essp\u003cem\u003e. gulfensis\u003c\/em\u003e originates from the Florida panhandle. The pitchers are upright and narrow, and the large, pointed lid undulates slightly. The coloration varies from olive green with red veins to entirely red plants. The small red flowers are weakly scented of raspberries. These charming plants have tons of pitchers! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia rubra\u003c\/em\u003e often produces its most beautiful and largest pitchers in late summer or early fall, so it puts on a long display of color and beauty! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seed-grown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Seed-Grown","offer_id":51014054084768,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Seed-Grown","offer_id":49466883768480,"sku":"","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large Seed-Grown","offer_id":51439434989728,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Seed-Grown","offer_id":58951094042784,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_rubra_ssp._gulfensis_Pitcher_plant.jpg?v=1788543164"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-deep-throat","title":"Sarracenia x 'Deep Throat' Division Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003eOne of the most famous and sought after of all \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e cultivars it's gaping mouth graced the cover of the Savage Garden as it was always one of Peter's favorite plants!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt has a form unlike any other \u003cem\u003eSarracenia;\u003c\/em\u003e a fiery, vaulted lid and a dark lip around its insanely wide mouth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large","offer_id":41938833047712,"sku":"","price":499.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_Deep_Throat_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788542585"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-ehlersiae-ixmiquilpan-potted","title":"Pinguicula ehlersiae \"Ixmiquilpan\" BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eOne of our all-time favorites, tiny little \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eehlerisiae,\u003c\/em\u003e stays dainty and petite, blushing pink under strong light. Like a magic trick, the flowers extend on long stems from the tiny rosettes. This is a miniature species and will remain small; when it arrives, it will be smaller than a dime! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant is a site location from Ixmiquilpan, and it develops an exquisite pink color! Not only is the rosette beautiful, but the tiny flowers are the brightest pink of the \u003cem\u003eehlersiae\u003c\/em\u003e!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis species is tiny, and the plants will only grow to 3\/4” - 1” at full growth; the plants we are shipping are smaller than that. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING. SEE THE FINAL PHOTO FOR AN EXAMPLE OF THIS WINTER SUCCULENT GROWTH. \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil, all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":32075648860232,"sku":"EHLI","price":17.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_ehlersiae_Ixmiquilpan_Butterwort.png?v=1791401520"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-lilac-lollipop","title":"Pinguicula “Lilac Lollipop” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis \u003cem\u003ecyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e hybrid is perhaps our favorite hybrid that Damon’s ever made. We’ve decided to name this fantastic plant “Lilac Lollipop” in honor of its spectacular lilac flowers!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese little butterworts blush a soft purple when exposed to bright light, like a giant \u003cem\u003ecyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e. It produces so many flowers that are a sweet lavender reminiscent of a violet. We’re head over heels in love with this plant! This is a must have butterwort!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will be 2-4” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346517725344,"sku":"MACY K2","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Pinguicula_Lilac_Lollipop.jpg?v=1788561229"},{"product_id":"drosera-tracyi-white-flower-potted","title":"Drosera tracyi “white flower” Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eFound along the Gulf Coast\u003cem\u003e, Drosera\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003etracyi\u003c\/em\u003e is one of our favorite thread leaf sundews! This large, showy sundew can reach up to 20 inches and is a soft green color with pinkish glands and pink flowers normally but this selection is anthocyanin-free! With all green leaves and white flowers, these \u003cem\u003etracyi\u003c\/em\u003e glow when the sun hits them. These are very special; we’re so excited to be able to offer this rare, white-flowered form!  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size. \u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":40715954127008,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Drosera_tracyi_white_flower_sundew.jpg?v=1785872013"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-queen-cthulhu-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Queen Cthulhu” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eWhen we released this in 2022, it was an immediate hit and remains one of our most popular and unique pings! The dark sister of “Snozzberry” “Queen Cthulhu” is one of the coolest things to come out of the nursery in a while!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dark purple trapping leaves are semi-upright with a crinkled edge. In winter, her succulent rosette is actually spiraled…this is a first for Pings! Also, and we’ve never seen a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e do this either, in the spring, the winter rosette pushes out a crown of weird thick adventitious roots! That is what got her the name “Queen Cthulhu! The flowers are equally beautiful and bizarre, a strange shade of pink that goes with the gothic look. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a dime and will be 1-3” at full size. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346513793184,"sku":"LTCY K2","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Pinguicula_Queen_Cthulhu_Butterwort.jpg?v=1785519901"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-hurricane-creek-white-clone-f-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla 'Hurricane Creek White' Clone F Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions of the famed “Clone F” from Mike Wang. Hurricane Creek used to be a site where \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e grew in the wild. Unfortunately all of the plants were destroyed and the site was turned into a highway overpass several years ago. This site was always known to have some of the most beautiful \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e; the upper part of the pitchers were all almost entirely white with little to no venation.  Luckily, before it was destroyed, seeds were collected.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":42571186307232,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56883942129824,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Hurricane_Creek_White_Clone_F.heic?v=1791404682"},{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-ceres-south-africa-potted","title":"Drosera capensis “Ceres, South Africa” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis form of \u003cem\u003ecapensis \u003c\/em\u003efrom Ceres, South Africa is exceptional! Each leaf is covered in extra red tentacles making them bushier, fuller, redder and more sparkly than the average sundew! This is a must have \u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e for the new grower and the collector!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than \u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e.  These plants are easy to grow, rewarding and will grow in a variety of conditions.  They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill or under lights.They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will even take a brief freeze with the leaves dying back but the plants regrowing readily from the roots in spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42665578889376,"sku":"","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Drosera_capensis_Ceres_South_Africa_Sundew.heic?v=1785872989"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-primrose-path-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Primrose Path” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eDamon did this cross ten years ago, and it’s been a favorite of his ever since it bloomed for the first time! We love the little lavender flowers with white throats because they look like their southeastern cousin, Pinguicula primuliflora. They’re constantly making cheerful little flowers that look like they should be lining a woodland path, so he named it Pinguicula x “Primrose Path.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are not in tissue culture and are a limited release! There are several clones in this batch all with very similar flowers and the same parentage from the original seed cross.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will be 1-3” at full growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42851056681120,"sku":null,"price":27.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Pinguicula_Primrose_Path_Flowers.heic?v=1791403327"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-edwardsiana-potted","title":"Nepenthes edwardsiana CalCarn Clone Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eNepenthes edwardsiana\u003c\/em\u003e is among the most magnificent and sought-after of all \u003cem\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/em\u003e species. It probably needs no introduction, but its famous, deeply ridged peristome makes it instantly recognizable and awe-inspiring!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eProduced with horticulturally produced seeds, this is a single clone exclusive from the California Carnivores tissue culture lab. We don’t know what sex these are yet, but when it flowers, we will update the listing!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plant you will receive is a small plant, about an inch across. The first three photos are of a more mature plant that is several years old. It is this exact clone. \u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThis is an ultra highland species which has specific requirements but many people have reported it to be more forgiving than \u003cem\u003evillosa, rajah \u003c\/em\u003eor \u003cem\u003e\u003cem\u003elowii.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. This species will appreciate added humidity, humidity over 70% is ideal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 60-80, with a 10 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 85 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. This species prefers cooler temps and higher humidity at all times. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":44359423656096,"sku":"JEDS71","price":299.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_edwardsiana_CalCarn.jpg?v=1789493985"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-kraken-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Kraken” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDionaea m. “Kraken” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! We haven’t grown them out to their full potential yet, but they’re all sure to be monsters, so we’re naming them all after famous monsters with ravenous appetites and huge reputations. Grow them out with us to see which monster will be the biggest!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are no longer in tissue culture, so there is a limited quantity! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44433582194848,"sku":"GITA K4","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Kraken_Venus_Flytrap.heic?v=1785874945"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-witchy-baby-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Witchy Baby” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. “Witchy Baby” is one of the most exciting CalCarn Venus flytrap cultivars we’ve ever released! This is the biggest Venus flytrap in our collection, with huge traps on long, thin arching petioles. The red traps have white-tipped cilia and a delicate arch. Every year, this plant pushes the limit of what size we think is possible! With two-inch traps on mature plants, this is the biggest, most beautiful Venus flytrap Damon has made yet! “Witchy Baby” is also slow to go dormant so you can enjoy this exuberant plant for a little longer!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe’ve named this plant “Witchy Baby” in honor of Damon’s nephew Finn, who coined the name for himself when he was little. (Finn is our office manager, Alison’s, youngest son!) Full of energy, laughter, and just the right amount of mischief, Finn “Witchy Baby” Tardif was the perfect person to honor with this excellent plant! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese plants are not in tissue culture and are extremely limited in availability. We are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45504515375264,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Witchy_Baby_Venu_Flytrap_close_up.jpg?v=1785874509"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-eye-of-sauron-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Eye of Sauron” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. “Eye of Sauron” is an exceptional plant! Each trap starts light red and slowly deepens to a dark, deep red in the center, like the famous Eye of Sauron. The plants grow many traps on tall petioles with long, white cilia and gently flared petioles. One of our absolute favorite flytraps of all time, “Eye of Sauron,” draws you in with its deep coloration and large trap size! It also is slow to go dormant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese plants are not in tissue culture so are extremely rarely offered and limited in quantity. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45505948909728,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Eye_of_Sauron_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785875287"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-lavender-lacewing-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Lavender Lacewing” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is one of our favorite plants from famed grower Mark Rubnitz! \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e x “Lavender Lacewing” has deep pink lined leaves that sparkle in the afternoon sun. We’d grow this Ping just for the rosettes, but the flowers are also truly remarkable! The stunning flowers are large and richly veined with lavender like a lacewing's delicate, ephemeral wings. The yellow throats of the flowers highlight the beautiful venation. This ping is almost always in bloom! This is exclusive to California Carnivores. Don’t miss out on this must-have for the Ping!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will be 2-4” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45846774120608,"sku":"LACE","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Lavender_Lacewing_Butterwort.heic?v=1788806362"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-st-elmos-fire-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “St Elmo’s Fire” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eWe have one last surprise sibling to “Snozzberry” and “Queen Cthulu” that may be the best so far! Its large, sparkly, purple-edged rosettes with rounded leaves are beyond charming but it’s the flowers that blew us away!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt’s the color of the flowers that we can’t look stop staring at. Each flower has a white throat surrounded by a bright red ring of color that bleeds into vibrant magenta; each day, the color slowly deepens. We have never seen a red-centered flower Ike this before! Truly one of Damon’s most spectacular hybrids! This plant was released in 2023. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about the size of a nickel and will be 1-2” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46376472248480,"sku":"LTCY K?","price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_St_Elmos_Fire_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788803947"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-carboni-ardenti-potted","title":"Dionaea m. 'Carboni Ardenti’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. 'Carboni Ardenti' is a fantastic, much sought-after, rare flytrap cultivar from Diflora. Each trap is an explosion of color; the exterior is a bright cherry red, with a lemon yellow interior dotted with red trigger hairs! The traps are lined with an unusual number of trigger hairs, and the cilia are jagged and uneven. The name means “burning coals,” and each trap looks like a red-hot coal waiting to catch fire! A rare new cultivar that is a must-have for the flytrap collector!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46853932187808,"sku":null,"price":84.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Carboni_Ardenti_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1786475301"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-mad-madam-mim-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Mad Madam Mim” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis is probably the most spectacular \u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003eto come out of the California Carnivores breeding program! Move over \u003cem\u003ecyclosecta\u003c\/em\u003e because Mim is wickedly purple! We knew we had a winner with this one early on when it was even turning purple in the tissue culture jars in our lab under low light. Everyone here was blown away once we moved them under our grow lights! There has never been a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003ethis purple!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe flowers are a fantastic, deep grape-purple, and the leaves flare back and down with rolled edges. The shining star of any \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e collection is “Mad Madam Mim.” Grow them under a strong light to really see the depths of just how purple they can get! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 1\/2” across and will be 2-3” at full growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47111228588192,"sku":"CYLC K1","price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Mad_Madam_Mim_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788805120"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-chinese-dumpling-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Chinese Dumpling” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/em\u003e. “Chinese Dumpling” is one of the best, most beautiful, and unusual flytrap cultivars! In a world of hundreds of bizarre and mutated flytraps, this one is an absolute standout! At maturity, the margins of these traps are twisted and absolutely evil-looking! When grown in intense light, these plants will blush a deep red with green petioles! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYoung plants, small traps, and winter traps all grow without significant mutation in the teeth, looking more like “typical” flytraps. As the plants mature and in the warmer, sunnier months, they start to mutate!\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47451370160288,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Chinese_Dumpling_Trap.jpg?v=1789771535"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-vogelii-x-ventricosa-potted","title":"Nepenthes vogelii x ventricosa “Select Clone” Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eNepenthes vogelii \u003c\/em\u003ex \u003cem\u003eventricosa\u003c\/em\u003e is one of our bestselling pitcher plants\u003ci\u003e \u003c\/i\u003efor good reason! This clone was selected from amongst many for its handsomely striped pitchers, as well as ease of growth. Being an intermediate grower it’s tolerant of a wide range of temperatures! We are obsessed with the long, tapered, elegant pitchers with coppery striped peristomes!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are from a single clone in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-4593. \u003cstrong\u003eSometimes the leaves will have splotchy red coloration, this is totally normal!\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube \" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Borneo Exotics","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":47809022001312,"sku":"BE-4593","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pitcher_Nepenthes_vogelii_x_ventricosa_BE_4593.jpg?v=1791482432"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-diatas-x-edwardsiana-seed-grown-potted","title":"Nepenthes diatas x edwardsiana J. Shafer Seed-Grown Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003ediatas\u003c\/em\u003e x \u003cem\u003eedwardsiana\u003c\/em\u003e is a new hybrid from master hybridized Jeff Shafer, you can follow him on instagram \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/nepenthesgod?igsh=MWQ1ZGUxMzBkMA==\" title=\"@nepenthesgod\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e@nepenthesgod\u003c\/a\u003e for more information on his breeding program. We’re so excited to collaborate with Jeff to be able to offer his impeccably curated hybrids.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eNepenthes diatas\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is a beautiful species with dark red pitchers and a shiny red lip.  The interior of the pitchers is waxy and white, which provides excellent contrast. \u003cem\u003eNepenthes edwardsiana \u003c\/em\u003epractically needs no description as it’s so famous for its beautiful and vicious deeply ridged pitchers! Both plants are known for their toothy peristomes so this should be a fun cross. We’re already seeing amazing coloration on these small pitchers and we expect deep red color and fantastic peristomes!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are all seed grown individuals and this is not in TC so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"J Schaeffer","offers":[{"title":"X-Small","offer_id":50932250476704,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_diatas_x_edwardsiana.jpg?v=1789494114"},{"product_id":"drosera-capensis-red-form-de-kom-rsa-potted","title":"Drosera capensis “Red Form, De Kom, RSA” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe most beautiful and striking of the Cape Sundews, the entire plant will be bright red when grown in full sun.  They are slightly slower growing than other Cape Sundews. The flowers are darker pink and on shorter scapes. This form is really exciting because not only is it a bright red color but it is a site location plant from De Kom, RSA.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have been thinking about growing carnivorous plants but don't know where to start, look no further than\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eDrosera capensis\u003c\/em\u003e.  These plants are easy to grow, rewarding and will grow in a variety of conditions.  They will thrive indoors in full sun, on a windowsill or under lights.  They will also do well outside in lots of sun and are cold hardy down to 40 degrees reliably. They will even take a brief freeze with the leaves dying back but the plants regrowing readily from the roots in spring. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlease note; in winter these plants can lose their red pigment and look quite green. They will regain their red coloration again in spring and summer or if grown under lights and exposed to longer photo periods.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we are shipping are about 2-4” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater:\u003c\/b\u003e Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they w\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eill catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52110269481120,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_capensis_Red_Form_De_Kom_RSA.jpg?v=1785872893"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-v-atropurpurea-dietz-clone-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava v. atropurpurea “Daetz Clone” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava \u003c\/em\u003evar \u003cem\u003eatropurpurea\u003c\/em\u003e is one of the most highly sought-after color forms of flava. The all-red color is truly striking! The pitchers deepen in color, rich blood-red, as they are exposed to more light throughout the season. When they first grow in, they can have contrasting golden-yellow lids, but these usually darken to a full red over time! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a beautiful clone from Andrew Daetz. These are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":52612435640480,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":53200241655968,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_v._atropurpurea_Daetz_Clone_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788550074"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-rubra-ssp-alabamensis-near-thornsby-al-potted","title":"Sarracenia rubra ssp. alabamensis “Near Thorsby, AL” Potted (PERMIT)","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia rubra\u003c\/em\u003e ssp.\u003cem\u003e alabamensis\u003c\/em\u003e is one of the most endangered species of the American pitcher plants and grows in only a handful of remaining sites.  The late summer pitchers are some of the best in the genus! They have an elegant shape, long lid and are glowing yellow, unlike any \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seedgrown from the site location near Thorsby, Alabama.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCalifornia Carnivores can ship this plant outside of California as per Permit Number ESPER0002076, the plant and any resulting seeds or progeny may not be planted on Federal property, these are artificially propagated. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Permit FWS","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":57820604760224,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":53215671877792,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":53215671910560,"sku":null,"price":64.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":53215671943328,"sku":null,"price":84.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_rubra_alabamensis_Near_Thorsby.jpg?v=1788543317"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-betelgeuse-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Betelgeuse” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Betelgeuse” is a new introduction for 2026! In almost 40 years of breeding, this is the culmination of all our hard work into the best thing we’ve ever made! Damon’s careful breeding has resulted in an insanely big and vigorous Venus flytrap with long lashes, but what really makes it a standout is how, in strong light, the interior of the traps and lashes get darker and darker until they are black and shiny like patent leather shoes. The traps have a great display of color, opening red and slowly darkening. To achieve the deepest black-reds, they need intense light, and we see the best color in summer traps. Be one of the very first people to grow this exceptional plant! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note; traps, especially in spring, will be red and green, still achieving enormous depth of color but peak color is reached in summer. The photo of the small potted plant shows how they look in early spring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy, even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56782785609888,"sku":"WBWM K1","price":199.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Betelgeuse_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1789669623"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-dragonfruit-punch-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Dragonfruit Punch” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003ePinguicula x “Dragonfruit Punch” is a new introduction for 2026! “Dragonfruit Punch” is a sibling to “Watermelon Punch.” And it has all the same charm as its sister; cute little rosettes with pink leaves but with a distinct, electric-pink, dragonfruit color! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe plants we ship are about 1\/2” and will be 1-2” at full growth. These plants were bred to stay smaller and more dainty! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING, YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56842507878560,"sku":"MMML K2","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Dragonfruit_Punch_Flower.jpg?v=1788847450"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-calen-s-super-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla ‘Calen’s Super’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis plant was bred by Calen Hall and gifted to us 5+ years ago. It immediately became one of Damons very favorite \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e in the collection! It kind of has it all! For starters its fall pitchers are cartoonishly large with an incredibly wide mouth and fat, hot pink lip. Damon has been using it extensively in his breeding program to make the next generation of giants! (The first photo is of Damon with our big breeding plant! You’ll receive divisions of this plant.)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions. X-large divisions may not be taller than large divisions, but they usually have multiple growth points, so they will grow vigorously and have more pitchers. This is a later-growing species, so you may not see a lot of pitchers until later in fall or early winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":56877992902816,"sku":null,"price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":67613629087904,"sku":null,"price":449.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Calen_Super_with_Damon.jpg?v=1791404773"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-reptile-potted","title":"Dionaea m. ‘Reptile’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. 'Reptile' is a new release from Europe! We love its unusual petioles that have spikes and ripples like a wild lizard skin! The plants themselves grow vigorously and the mutation shows up best in summer! If you order now, you’ll likely only see a little of the ridging on the petioles. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis cultivar is very, very rare in the US.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall, the second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56977139794080,"sku":null,"price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Reptile_Venus_Flytrap.webp?v=1785875877"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-x-aunt-widow-potted","title":"Sarracenia x “Aunt Widow” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia \u003c\/em\u003ex “Aunt Widow” is a phenomenal, deep, dark, black-red \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e! It starts out the season with red pitchers that slowly deepens into a picture of gothic delight! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Rob Co","offers":[{"title":"Medium Divsion","offer_id":67602596004000,"sku":null,"price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":56989186359456,"sku":null,"price":79.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56989186687136,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_Aunt_Widow_Lid_Back.jpg?v=1791405255"},{"product_id":"pinguicula-x-ting-tang-bare-root","title":"Pinguicula x “Ting Tang” BARE ROOT","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e x “Ting Tang” is a new introduction for 2026! This is the adorable sister to “Walla Walla!” Damon loves crossing \u003cem\u003ePinguicula \u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003ecolimensis\u003c\/em\u003e because of its huge flowers in relatively short scapes. And we were not disappointed with this one! The flowers are surprisingly large for such a cute little onion of a rosette!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe large, white flowers are on the shortest little scapes, which is ridiculously cute. The flowers are full with big, wide petals, just like its sister but with purple-pink dappling at the throat! Because of the \u003cem\u003emacrophylla\u003c\/em\u003e in it, the succulent rosettes reminded us of little onions, and they will tend to flower early in the season while still in their onion state.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe named its sister “Walla Walla” because it’s such a cute little onion of a plant, so we naturally had to name this one “Ting Tang” like the song! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBecause of the plants used in this cross, they often stay in succulent stage longer into the year. You are likely to receive one in that stage even in summer! But don’t worry, they flower readily in succulent stage. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe plants we ship are about .5” and will be 2” at full growth. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis plant will not come potted; you will need to pot it up upon arrival. Mexican\/Tropical \u003cem\u003ePinguicula\u003c\/em\u003e prefer our sandy \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/mexican-or-tropical-butterworts\/products\/copy-of-california-carnivores-pinguicula-soil-mix\"\u003e\u003cem\u003ePINGUICULA\u003c\/em\u003e SOIL MIX\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIF YOU ORDER IN WINTER\/EARLY SPRING YOUR PLANT MAY ARRIVE IN WINTER SUCCULENT MODE. DURING THIS TIME, IT WILL GROW SUBSTANTIALLY SMALLER, TIGHT, SUCCULENT LEAVES. DO NOT OVER WATER DURING THIS TIME. IT WILL GROW CARNIVOROUS LEAVES IN THE SPRING.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula are generally small plants; depending on the species and growth phase, they can range from 1\/2” to 8” across at maturity. Most are 2-4” across. They form rosettes of leaves covered in glistening dew, which have a high turnover rate, meaning that they die back frequently, and new leaves grow at the center from the plant. They have pretty leaves, some blush red or purple, \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eand all are covered in sparkling dew. Their flowers are hummingbird and butterfly pollinated in the wild and because their pollinators are attracted to colorful flowers, they have beautiful flowers With long neck spurs! Many species will experience a winter succulent phase. A combination of shorter photo periods, cooler temperatures, and dryer conditions trigger this phase. While this phase is not necessary for the plant to thrive, it is often out of our control whether the plants do this or not. During their succulent phase, they grow small, rounded leaves that look very different from their large carnivorous leaves. Plants in this stage will be significantly smaller than they will be in carnivorous growth. The natural cycle of Pinguicula can lead them to be in succulent growth in spring, not starting their carnivorous growth until late spring sometimes even early summer. Watching them grow their carnivorous leaves is like watching a magic trick; tiny, tight leaves begin to transform into huge, sticky, carnivorous leaves! Pinguicula can easily propagate from leaf pullings, like a succulent. They will also form small clumps over time, dividing naturally. While they can have a long life, they won’t live forever, so it is a good idea to take pullings every year. They do not have significant root systems, and the roots they have are often minimal and very short. The roots can be white, transparent, or brown, and they use these roots mainly to anchor themselves to the soil's surface (they still offer benefits, though, so please do not cut them off). \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eSun:\u003c\/b\u003e Full to part sun. Sunny windowsills indoors, in a temperature-regulated greenhouse, or under grow lights. In tropical parts of the world or very mild climates, they can be grown outdoors in dappled sun, morning sun only, or under shade cloth. They must be protected from the full afternoon sun. It is best to grow under 30% shade cloth in the summer months when grown in a greenhouse. They can benefit from 30% shade cloth if grown outdoors as well. If your plant is much greener than it should be, developing larger, more elongated leaves than normal for the species or hybrid, and does not have much dew, it may need more light. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cb\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity: \u003c\/b\u003eIn the late spring, summer, and early autumn, Pinguicula can be kept in the tray system with overhead watering as long as they still have carnivorous foliage. This means setting the pots in a deep saucer or tray and routinely filling that with 1\/4”-1\/2” water. If grown in a non-draining pot, allow room to water and water overhead frequently to keep soil media moist, but do not water so deeply as to have standing water sitting on the surface of the soil; all the water should be absorbed. When the rosettes show their very first signs of growing their smaller, tighter succulent leaves immediately begin to dry out your plants. Keep the soil on the dry side, watering them only a little and let dry out in between watering. You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves. The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a \u003cem\u003ePinguicula gypsicola\u003c\/em\u003e or the bulb-like \u003cem\u003eheterophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003emacrophylla \u003c\/em\u003erequire bone-dry conditions. Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the \u003cem\u003emoranensis \u003c\/em\u003evarieties or \u003cem\u003eagnata\u003c\/em\u003e, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying. When these plants are transitioning between carnivorous and succulent growth they are at the most risk of rotting, so it is better to air on the side of drier when the temperatures start to get colder and the photo periods shorten. In spring, as soon as the temperatures start to warm and the photo periods lengthen, start watering your plants more. When carnivorous leaves start to grow, begin the tray method again. (If your plant decides it does not want to make carnivorous leaves, don’t worry, sometimes they are stubborn! Water frequently and make sure your plant gets lots of light, preferably some natural light from the sun as well, to try to trigger carnivorous leaf growth. But don’t worry if your ping stays in succulent mode for a whole year, eventually it will grow carnivorous leaves again!) Pinguicula are extremely susceptible to dissolved minerals and salts in their water and poor water quality will directly contribute to decline of plants and death. Be sure to only use rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003e Pinguicula prefer drier conditions and do not require high humidity.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/b\u003e 50 degrees - 90 degrees. While not ideal, Pinguicula can tolerate brief nighttime dips to 40 as long as daytime temperatures warm back up and can tolerate brief heat waves over 90 as long as they are protected from the sun and sitting in water AND nighttime temperatures decrease. Cold temperatures are likely to kill Pinguicula, so avoid exposing them \u003c\/i\u003e\u003ci\u003eto anything below 50 if possible.\u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cb\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/b\u003e No true dormancy but does have a winter succulent phase during which the plant will produce small succulent leaves instead of flat sticky leaves. Pinguicula do not need this period of succulent growth to grow well. If your plant does not grow succulent leaves, there is no need to try to induce the transition. See the section on watering for in depth care during this time. \u003c\/i\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply Schultz Cactus Fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves with a mister bottle, during the grow season. Do not apply in winter or during succulent winter mode. We use seven drops of fertilizer in 20 ounces of distilled water. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003ePinguicula grow in very dry and rocky soil mixes, do not use a mix that holds a lot of moisture. We use equal parts sand, peat moss, pumice, and perlite. You can order our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/pinguicula-soil-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Pinguicula Growing Mix\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ePinguicula soil mix\u003c\/a\u003e! These plants ship bare-root so you will have to order potting media and pot them up upon arrival. Pinguicula do not have extensive roots and anchor to the surface of their soil making them ideal candidates for quirky, cute, small, non-draining planters like teacups or vintage pottery. You can plant them in all variety of pots as long as they are glazed ceramic, glazed terracotta, glass or plastic. Avoid un-glazed terracotta. They can be in small pots and do not need much room for roots. Pinguicula are one of the most sensitive plants to a build of minerals and salts in their soil or water. Repot every year to refresh soil.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":57018505986208,"sku":"MAKO K1","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Pinguicula_Ting_Tang_Butterwort.jpg?v=1788562586"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-x-trusmadiensis-x-robcantleyi-be-4545","title":"Nepenthes ( x trusmadiensis) x robcantleyi “Clone #4” Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eIt took BE many years to make this dream cross between one of the most spectacular of all natural hybrids and one of the most iconic of species. This is a select clone, chosen for its amazing color and peristome!\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThese are a select clone in tissue culture by Borneo Exotics, BE-4545. \u003cstrong\u003eSometimes the leaves on this hybrid have a bit of a splotchy coloration, this is totally normal!\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Borneo Exotics","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":57050116685984,"sku":"BE-4545","price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_trusmadiensis_x_robcantleyi_Clone_4_BE-4545.jpg?v=1785870353"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-lowii-x-veitchii-x-boschiana-x-veitchii-x-maxima-x-veitchii-x-edwardsiana-clone-3-be-4678-fc-145-potted","title":"Nepenthes {[(lowii x veitchii) x boschiana] x [(veitchii x maxima) x veitchii]} x edwardsiana - clone # 3: BE-4678 Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the most complex hybrid Borneo Exotics has ever introduced and despite half of the parentage being the superlative, but slow-growing, \u003ci\u003eNepenthes edwardsiana\u003c\/i\u003e, there's nothing slow or particularly difficult about this cross when it comes to growing it.  This particular clone is #3 and is excellent with the pronounced peristome ribs of \u003cem\u003eNepenthes edwardsiana\u003c\/em\u003e very evident atop hard dark pitchers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe hope you enjoy growing this amazing cross as much as we do! Made in partnership with Florae, this is Florae number FC-145.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThese are a select clone in tissue culture by Borneo Exotics, BE-4678. \u003cstrong\u003eSometimes the leaves on this hybrid have a bit of a splotchy coloration, this is totally normal!\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Borneo Exotics","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":57050134577312,"sku":"BE-4678","price":89.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_lowii_x_veitchii_x_boschiana_x_veitchii_x_maxima_x_veitchii_x_edwardsiana_BE-4678.jpg?v=1785867074"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-judith-hindle-x-caitrin-claire-potted","title":"Sarracenia ( x 'Judith Hindle' ) x ( x ‘Caitrin Claire’ ) Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e ( x 'Judith Hindle' ) x ( x ‘Caitrin Claire’ ) is one of our most exciting new releases of 2026! These lacy, hot-pink, ruffly beauties are exceptional! ‘Judith Hindle’ is a classic plant that is still a standout today, and Damon loves crossing with it because it adds lots of bright pinks and lacy ruffles. ‘Caitrin Claire’ is a relatively new and exceptionally beautiful cultivar that has some of the best electric-pink, psychedelic coloration of any \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e! With a complicated cross like this, it’s hard to know what you’re going to get, but with this cross, every single plant is so good, we were tempted to keep them all! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seed-grown plants, so there are variations in size, color, and form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58107788165280,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58107788198048,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58107788230816,"sku":null,"price":54.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_Judith_Hindle_x_Caitrin_Claire_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788554754"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-alata-night-x-self-x-alata-giant-red-tube-mka48-potted","title":"Sarracenia ( alata ‘Night’ x self ) x alata “Giant Red Tube” MKA48 Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eA direct quote from Damon: “\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e ( \u003cem\u003ealata\u003c\/em\u003e ‘Night’ x self ) x \u003cem\u003ealata\u003c\/em\u003e “Giant Red Tube” MKA48 is the best possible alata we could make!” The pod parent is the very darkest \u003cem\u003ealata\u003c\/em\u003e in our collection, which is a selfed ‘Night’ that is nearly completely black by late fall! The pollen parent is \u003cem\u003ealata \u003c\/em\u003e“Giant Red Tube!”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSince you’re about to buy a very expensive and beautiful \u003cem\u003ealata, \u003c\/em\u003ea quick primer on how they color up! Like all \u003cem\u003eSarracenia, \u003c\/em\u003eeven\u003cem\u003e \u003c\/em\u003edark\u003cem\u003e alata\u003c\/em\u003e like these will have golden pitchers with lots of dark venation when they first open up. Over the course of the summer, those veins darken and spread, and it isn’t until the fall that these black alata will show you what they can do! And again, in all \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e, strong light and optimal conditions are required for the best color depth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are seed-grown, so there is some variation in size and color. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58107834794144,"sku":null,"price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58107834925216,"sku":null,"price":54.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58107834957984,"sku":null,"price":69.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_alata_Night_x_self_x_alata_Giant_Red_Tube_MKA48_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788560919"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-rugelii-clone-a-x-b-1-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava var rugelii “Clone A x B” #1 DG Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava \u003c\/em\u003evar\u003cem\u003e. rugelii\u003c\/em\u003e is arrestingly beautiful: a burst of vibrant, chartreuse pitchers with a dark, mysterious blotch at the throat that catches the eye. Starting as a thin, red line on seedlings, it develops into the iconic, thick, blood-red blotch of \u003cem\u003erugelii \u003c\/em\u003eat maturity, adding to its allure and fascination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions of a legendary plant made by Mike Wang. Clone A is considered one of the best \u003cem\u003erugelii\u003c\/em\u003e and Mikes Clone B is beautiful but less vigorous, so he combined them to make a beautiful, more vigorous rugelii. One of the plants from this breeding, #1, is the biggest, tallest \u003cem\u003erugelii\u003c\/em\u003e in Mike's collection! This is a beast of a plant and a must have the collector.  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eX-Large divisions are not always taller but will have either multiple growth points or very chonky rhizomes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"David Green","offers":[{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":58127217688736,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58127217721504,"sku":null,"price":64.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_var_rugelii_Clone_A_x_B_1_Pitcher_plant.jpg?v=1788546594"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-alata-desoto-nf-ma-stocky-black-tube-dg-potted","title":"Sarracenia alata “DeSoto National Forest, MA, Stocky Black Tube” MKA28 Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia alata\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, the Pale Trumpet has unique, superbly pale yellow, almost pure white, flowers. It has very upright pitchers that are quite variable in both size and coloration. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia alata\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e has neatly pointed lids, usually held closely to the mouth with a slightly bulging throat. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan data-sheets-root=\"1\"\u003eThis particular clone is an exceptional plant, well known for its dark red, almost black coloration and their fantastic soft fuzz covering the pitchers. Early season pitchers can be taper and elegant but over time they get enormously thick and stocky! These are divisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58131321553056,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_alata_DeSoto_National_Forest_MA_Stocky_Black_Tube_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1784063986"},{"product_id":"drosera-binata-octopus-potted","title":"Drosera binata ‘Octopus’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDrosera binata\u003c\/i\u003e 'Octopus' is phenomenal forked leaf sundew! The leaves, at maturity, are huge and fork over and over! Created be Christian Klein, this is a hybrid between \u003cem\u003ebinata \u003c\/em\u003evar \u003cem\u003ebinata \u003c\/em\u003eand \u003cem\u003ebinata \u003c\/em\u003evar \u003cem\u003edichotoma\u003c\/em\u003e. This beast of a plant can fork 28 times at maturity and has gigantic leaves! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 1-2” in size. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera binata is a forked-leaf sundew that has thick black roots from which long, thin petioles arise. The leaves branch into two points and the flowers are clustered on tall stems. The leaves can be up to 10” tall. The plant spread into massive clumps. Drosera binata is a hardy and easy plant that will often regrow from the roots if killed by a freeze or other mishap. Most forms of binata in cultivation are sterile or have self-incompatible flowers. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They can also regrow from the roots after a freeze. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58147556950176,"sku":null,"price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_binata_Octopus_Sundew.jpg?v=1785873368"},{"product_id":"drosera-filiformis-var-gigantea-potted","title":"Drosera filiformis var gigantea Potted","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ci\u003eDrosera filiformis\u003c\/i\u003e var. \u003cem\u003egigantea\u003c\/em\u003e This thread-leaf sundew can grow very tall! The long, thin, thread like leaves are covered in red tentacles which glitter and glisten in the sun; making it a lovely addition to any bog garden. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003eThe plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size. These plants can go dormant in late summer, if ordered August or later, they may arrive dormant.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlease note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS AUGUST AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how \u003cem\u003eDrosera\u003c\/em\u003e can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eDrosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFull sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"prod-detail-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58147975200928,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Drosera_filiformis_var_gigantea_Sundew.jpg?v=1785872411"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-x-pink-thing-potted","title":"Sarracenia x ‘Pink Thing’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia \u003c\/em\u003ex ‘Pink Thing’ is a fantastic cultivar that we’ve been dying to get into our hands on! The white and pink pitchers grow in prolific clusters. But perhaps its most striking feature is its oversized, ruffly, white lid that slowly pours down over the mouth of the pitcher. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are from tissue culture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58930382667936,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_Pink_Thing_Pitcher_0495d8a1-34cf-4750-bdaa-b8d2bab3d20e.jpg?v=1791405195"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-var-alba-seed-grown-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla var alba seed-grown Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla \u003c\/i\u003evar\u003ci\u003e alba\u003c\/i\u003e signifies nearly pure white pitchers in the upper pitcher and lid! These are some of the most highly prized and sought-after of the \u003cem\u003eSarracenia \u003c\/em\u003ebecause of their luminous beauty! Large pitchers with lacy lids open on stately, tall white pitchers!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seed grown plants and there is a lot of variation in their coloration, not all will be pure white and many have pink on their pitchers when they open, slowly blushing more white over time. Others have green venation and some are pure white. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58951088603296,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58951082836128,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58951088636064,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_var_alba_seed-grown.jpg?v=1790629769"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-selection-a-baldwin-co-al-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “Selection A, Baldwin Co, AL” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant.  It produces large, red-petaled flowers as tall as 3 feet! The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn.  These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring! The pitchers are variable, with the lower part of the tubes green, tan, or purplish red. The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column, and lid are nearly pure white laced with a network of veins in green to pink to red to purple.  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants come from Splinter Hill, Baldwin County, Alabama and are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large","offer_id":58959165292704,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":58959165325472,"sku":null,"price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Selection_A_Baldwin_Co_AL.jpg?v=1790629180"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-neon-pink-baldwin-co-al-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla \"Neon Pink, Baldwin Co, AL\" Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. These plants are divisions from the \"Neon Pink” clone and come from Baldwin County, Alabama. They are phenomenally neon pink with ruffled lids! The lower part of the pitchers is a rich, deep pink. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions and are in limited supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":58959207628960,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":58959207661728,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58959207006368,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Neon_Pink_Baldwin_Co_AL.jpg?v=1790629015"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-baldwin-co-puffy-cheeks-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla Baldwin Co. “Puffy Cheeks” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e‘Puffy Cheeks’ is one of Mike Wangs favorite plants! It consistently produces two flushes of pitchers in fall which is very unusual. But the best part about this plant is its distinctive puffed out pitcher, right at the mouth of the plant, like it’s holding its breath with its cheeks puffed out!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58959213625504,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58959213658272,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58959213691040,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":58959213723808,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Baldwin_Co_Puffy_Cheeks.jpg?v=1790628775"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-black-sheer-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla ‘Black Sheer’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eWe're excited to offer, for the first time, these three special divisions of one of the most sought-after \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e!  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e is a very diverse species ranging from pure white to bright pink, but this new \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e is nearly black when grown in full sun! Its relatively wide lip can be completely black, and the white fenestrations nearly disappear as the black veins darken. Be one of the very first people in the US to own this plant! We will not have more available for a year or two once these sell out. These divisions have pitchers at least 10” tall.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Division","offer_id":67565842989216,"sku":null,"price":499.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Black_Sheer.jpg?v=1790628272"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-flava-v-atropurpurea-european-clone-potted","title":"Sarracenia flava v. atropurpurea “European Clone” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003cem\u003eSarracenia flava \u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003evar \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eatropurpurea\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is one of the most highly sought-after color forms of flava. The all-red color is truly striking! The pitchers deepen in color, rich blood-red, as they are exposed to more light throughout the season. When they first grow in, they can have contrasting golden-yellow lids, but these usually darken to a full red over time! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions of a European Clone. X-Large divisions have multiple growth points but may not necessarily be taller than other divisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"X-Large Divisions","offer_id":67613407805600,"sku":null,"price":119.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_flava_v._atropurpurea_European_Clone.jpg?v=1791392653"},{"product_id":"nepenthes-mapuluensis-potted","title":"Nepenthes mapuluensis Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNepenthes mapuluensis \u003c\/em\u003elooks like a highland \u003cem\u003eNorthiana\u003c\/em\u003e; it has beautiful spotted pitchers with an elliptical mouth and a flared peristome. This plant is not for the beginner as it prefers ideal highland conditions. We recommend using an akadama mix for best growing.  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are a selection of clones from Borneo Exotics, BE-4618.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eNepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater \u0026amp; Humidity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e Apply diluted \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxsea fertilizer\u003c\/a\u003e once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil \u0026amp; Repotting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003eNepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-premium-nepenthes-mix\" title=\"CalCarn Nepenthes Soil\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eNepenthes soil\u003c\/a\u003e blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot. However this plant will do best in a mix with more akadama in it. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore Information:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003eFor more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/apps\/help-center\" title=\"California Carnivores FAQ\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eFAQ\u003c\/a\u003e page or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=oo8apkz3p5bhyepi\" title=\"California Carnivores YouTube\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Agristarts","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":67613437395104,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Nepenthes_mapuluensis.jpg?v=1791392500"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/collections\/Icons_Featured_Products.jpg?v=1789668251","url":"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/front-page-collection.oembed?page=4","provider":"California Carnivores","version":"1.0","type":"link"}