{"title":"Giant Flytraps","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese are cultivars that will grow to a large size, over time with the right care! You will receive a small-sized plant that is capable of fantastic growth!\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"dionaea-m-b-52-potted","title":"Dionaea m. 'B-52' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. 'B-52' is one of the most famous flytraps for its colossal size, beautiful color, and incredible vigorous growth! These plants are stunning in their color, shape, and form and always form large traps on mature plants! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52385650573472,"sku":null,"price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_m._B-52_flytrap.jpg?v=1792517368"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-dc-xl-potted","title":"Dionaea m. 'DC-XL' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe fantastic and famous Dionaea\u003ci\u003e m\u003c\/i\u003e. 'DC-XL' is well known for its huge traps, reaching up to 2” in size! This is one of the giant flytrap cultivars, rivaling the likes of ‘B-52’ or ‘Ginormous’! The huge traps rise on tall, thick petioles, and as the plant matures, it fills its pot with many traps!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe first photo is of our botanical collection plant. \u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall, the second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":12441141313571,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_DC-XL_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785877092"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-ginormous","title":"Dionaea m. 'Ginormous' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea muscipula\u003c\/em\u003e 'Ginormous' is a renowned giant cultivar boasting enormous, bright candy-apple-red traps with thick petioles and incredibly robust outdoor growth. It's a voracious predator, capturing a multitude of bugs with its large, powerful traps!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall, these small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":34783862882464,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Ginormous_Flytrap_Trap.jpg?v=1789770097"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-la-grosse-a-guigui-potted","title":"Dionaea m. 'La Grosse a Guigui' Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. 'La Grosse a Guigui' has become one of our most requested cultivars! These plants are called 'The Big One,' and it shows! With huge, arching traps held atop long, thin, delicate petioles, these plants are like a bouquet of huge traps. Don't miss out on this plant! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":37174506389664,"sku":"","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_La_Grosse_a_Guigui.jpg?v=1789770280"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-jersey-devil-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Jersey Devil” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDionaea m. “Jersey Devil” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars: ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! They will surely be monsters, so we’re naming them all after famous monsters with ravenous appetites and huge reputations. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\"Jersey Devil\" has proven to have some of the most giant traps of any monster! The gigantic traps are blush-red with incredibly long teeth and blood-red trigger hairs. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346930569376,"sku":"GITA K6","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Jersey_Devil.jpg?v=1791393833"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-sasquatch-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Sasquatch” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDionaea m. “Sasquatch” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! They’re all sure to be monsters, so we’re naming them all after famous monsters with ravenous appetites and huge reputations. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e'Sasquatch’ has fantastic long cilia and huge, peachy colored traps!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2' tall. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346966188192,"sku":"GITA K10","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Sasquatch_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785874605"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-jabberwocky-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Jabberwocky” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Jabberwocky” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! They will surely be monsters, so we’re naming them all after famous monsters with ravenous appetites and huge reputations.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\"Jabberwocky\" has incredible electric-red coloration on the interiors of its huge traps, which have really long teeth! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, they are about 1-2\" tall. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42346974478496,"sku":"GITA K5","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Jabberwocky_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785875005"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-chupacabra","title":"Dionaea m. “Chupacabra” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Chupacabra” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ and “Godzilla.” “Godzilla” is a massive dentate plant we’ve made here at CalCarn and has not yet been released. This is the only hybrid of “Godzilla” we have ever released! \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e“Chupacabra” are fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Chupacabra is a legendary, blood-sucking mythical creature that hunts goats! It’s the perfect name for a monster flytrap with huge traps and long, vicious teeth!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42471656685728,"sku":"GIGO K4","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Dionaea_chupacabra.heic?v=1786475141"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-kraken-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Kraken” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDionaea m. “Kraken” is an exciting cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps! We haven’t grown them out to their full potential yet, but they’re all sure to be monsters, so we’re naming them all after famous monsters with ravenous appetites and huge reputations. Grow them out with us to see which monster will be the biggest!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are no longer in tissue culture, so there is a limited quantity! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44433582194848,"sku":"GITA K4","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Kraken_Venus_Flytrap.heic?v=1785874945"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-witchy-baby-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Witchy Baby” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. “Witchy Baby” is one of the most exciting CalCarn Venus flytrap cultivars we’ve ever released! This is the biggest Venus flytrap in our collection, with huge traps on long, thin arching petioles. The red traps have white-tipped cilia and a delicate arch. Every year, this plant pushes the limit of what size we think is possible! With two-inch traps on mature plants, this is the biggest, most beautiful Venus flytrap Damon has made yet! “Witchy Baby” is also slow to go dormant so you can enjoy this exuberant plant for a little longer!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe’ve named this plant “Witchy Baby” in honor of Damon’s nephew Finn, who coined the name for himself when he was little. (Finn is our office manager, Alison’s, youngest son!) Full of energy, laughter, and just the right amount of mischief, Finn “Witchy Baby” Tardif was the perfect person to honor with this excellent plant! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese plants are not in tissue culture and are extremely limited in availability. We are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45504515375264,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Witchy_Baby_Venu_Flytrap_close_up.jpg?v=1785874509"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-eye-of-sauron-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Eye of Sauron” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. “Eye of Sauron” is an exceptional plant! Each trap starts light red and slowly deepens to a dark, deep red in the center, like the famous Eye of Sauron. The plants grow many traps on tall petioles with long, white cilia and gently flared petioles. One of our absolute favorite flytraps of all time, “Eye of Sauron,” draws you in with its deep coloration and large trap size! It also is slow to go dormant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese plants are not in tissue culture so are extremely rarely offered and limited in quantity. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45505948909728,"sku":null,"price":149.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Eye_of_Sauron_Venus_Flytrap.jpg?v=1785875287"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-mega-traps-potted","title":"Dionaea m. 'Mega Traps' Potted","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"UTF-8\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWow, these really are Mega sized traps! If you don't grow these yet, they have large traps that blush a deep red when grow in strong light! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":46578838438048,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Venus_flytraps_mega_traps.jpg?v=1792518623"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-mammoth-potted","title":"Dionaea m. ‘Mammoth’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. ‘Mammoth’ is a stunning plant that we’re thrilled to offer! This beauty results from breeding three giant cultivars, so you know it will be a showstopper. With tons of traps in low rosettes, so far, even in dormancy, this plant is a real eye-catcher. When grown in bright light, the traps blush a gorgeous red down the mid-rib, making it even more mesmerizing! You won’t want to miss out on this fantastic plant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" across, the second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48084617855136,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_mammoth_venus_flytrap.jpg?v=1785876070"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-white-fang-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “White Fang” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/i\u003e. “White Fang” is a new cultivar for 2024! Damon created this plant many years ago, and we have grown it in our botanical collection for years, never releasing it! When we hosted the International Carnivorous Plant Society conference, this flytrap drew so much attention that we decided we needed to divide it and name it! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe beautiful plants produce tall, thin petioles with large traps gently reaching downwards. The cilia blush red to pink to white and stand out strongly against the traps' red interiors! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis isn’t in tissue culture and is only propagated through division, so we have an extremely limited quantity of these plants available. When they’re gone, they’re gone!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants. The second-to-last photo shows their size. These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50655949914272,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_White_Fang_traps.jpg?v=1792103042"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-becca-s-giant-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Becca’s Giant” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Becca’s Giant” is a fun cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e”Becca’s Giant” was selected for its amazing size and vigor! It was named for our wonderful horticultural crew member; Becca!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions from our botanical collection and are rarely offered. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\" tall.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56884208566432,"sku":"GITA K11","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Beccas_Giant_Venus_Flytrap.heic?v=1785875601"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-muntaser-s-giant-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Muntaser’s Giant” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Muntaser’s Giant” is a fun cultivar selected from a cross of two giant flytrap cultivars; ‘Ginormous’ x ’BCP Titan.’ We have several clones from this cross, and all should be huge, fast-growing plants with long teeth and arching traps!\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e”Muntaser’s Giant” was selected for its amazing size and vigor with very upright traps! This plant was named for our amazing potter, Muntaser.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions from our botanical collection and are rarely offered. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":56884210827424,"sku":"GITA K9","price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Muntasers_Giant_Venus_Flytrap.heic?v=1785874912"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-antonov-225-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Antonov 225” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003em\u003c\/em\u003e. “Antonov 225” is one of the biggest new cultivars from European growers! It is n\u003cspan\u003eamed after the Antonov An-225 Mriya, the biggest aircraft ever built! It has really large, arched, low growing traps that have been reported to reach 6cm! \u003c\/span\u003eFamed grower, Jeremiah Harris, says this is one biggest plants in his collection so we had to have it!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\". These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFirst photo from Jeremiah Harris, second from Diflora.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58750180360352,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea-muscipula-Antonov.webp?v=1787595012"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-trixie-mattel-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Trixie Mattel” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea m\u003c\/em\u003e. “Trixie Mattel” is a new release for 2026! We’re huge Trixie Mattel fans around here. This giant flytrap, flamboyantly colorful flytrap reminded us of her larger than life personality and her voluptuous lashes! And, watch out girl, she bites! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\". These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58947196780704,"sku":"WITH K2","price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Trixie_Mattel.jpg?v=1791394674"},{"product_id":"dionaea-m-swamp-fire-potted","title":"Dionaea m. “Swamp Fire” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDionaea m.\u003c\/em\u003e “Swamp Fire” is a new release for 2026, and we have a very limited supply, as these are not in tissue culture. This has the genetics of an extremely vigorous, large Venus flytrap, but it was the coloration that made us fall in love with it! If you’ve grown these plants for a long time, you’ve probably already accepted that there are many shades of red, and the interiors of these traps are a beautiful, bright, eye-catching orangey-red that bleeds down the petiole and suffuses across the entire plant when grown in strong light. This cultivar has great contrast, with yellow edges running along the red traps. There’s a fiery beauty to this one that merited a name, even though it’s no longer in tissue culture. Like swamp fire itself, flytraps this colorful are a rarely encountered treasure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWe are shipping small plants, about 1-2\". These small plants will grow rapidly in summer!\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePLEASE NOTE VENUS FLYTRAPS GO DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS.\u003c\/strong\u003e During this time, they appear relatively small and grow a few traps; please see the final photo to see how flytraps look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eGrowth Habit: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eVenus flytraps are low-growing bog plants native to North and South Carolina. These plants grow their traps, modified leaves, from a rhizome that spreads over time. The traps will die back frequently all year, have high leaf turnover, and many new traps will grow throughout the spring and summer. In spring, the traps grow, often low to the ground and small. In summer, they grow their best traps, taller and more prominent. As Fall comes on, the traps start to die back, growing lower to the ground and smaller, and by winter, the plant will be dormant, with many or all of the traps gone, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see any traps growing. Venus flytraps have black roots, and not generally not many of them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Full sun. Venus flytraps require lots of direct sun to grow and produce traps. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several traps\/leaves to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Venus flytraps can be grown indoors, on extremely sunny windowsills, that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Venus flytraps generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and good airflow. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eWater: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Venus flytraps are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThese are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Venus flytraps every 1-3 years in January or winter. Avoid placing in excessively larger pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, a foliar fertilizer, and feeding the traps. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the traps with a mister bottle. If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap, it is recommended that you use live prey, as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the complete absorption process. They will often open too soon if fed inert foods and do not absorb nutrients. We recommend live mealworms, which are available from any pet store. After digestion, Venus flytraps open back up, leaving the exoskeleton of their prey. They have liquified and absorbed the contents of the insect, but the exoskeleton remains. This does not need to be removed. Traps often die back after a big meal; new ones will grow, and the plant benefits greatly from the nutrients! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/pages\/venus-flytrap-care\"\u003eVenus Flytrap Care\u003c\/a\u003e, or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":58947199893664,"sku":"WITB K4","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Dionaea_Swamp_Fire_CLose_Up.jpg?v=1790091019"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/collections\/Dionaea_witchy_baby_and_Damon.jpg?v=1789668290","url":"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/giant-flytraps.oembed?page=2","provider":"California Carnivores","version":"1.0","type":"link"}