{"title":"Sarracenia leucophylla","description":"\u003cp\u003eSarracenia leucophylla is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the American pitcher plants! Leucophylla generally sends up two crops of pitchers. The spring set, with thinner pitchers, and then its robust, tall, most beautiful pitchers in fall.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. It produces large, red petaled flowers that can be as tall as 3 feet!  The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn.  These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring! The pitchers are variable with the lower part of the tubes green, tan or purplish red.  The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column and lid are nearly pure white laced with a network of veins in green to pink to red to purple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions from our botanical collection and there is some variation in color form. \u003cstrong\u003eThe small sized plants are tissue culture plants.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":42057224618144,"sku":"LEUC1","price":9.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":7274349002787,"sku":"","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":7274349035555,"sku":"","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":44357458952352,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1788545630"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-hurricane-creek-white-clone-f-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla 'Hurricane Creek White' Clone F Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions of the famed “Clone F” from Mike Wang. Hurricane Creek used to be a site where \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e grew in the wild. Unfortunately all of the plants were destroyed and the site was turned into a highway overpass several years ago. This site was always known to have some of the most beautiful \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e; the upper part of the pitchers were all almost entirely white with little to no venation.  Luckily, before it was destroyed, seeds were collected.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":42571186307232,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56883942129824,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Hurricane_Creek_White_Clone_F.heic?v=1791404682"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-purple-and-white-ck-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla \"purple and white\" CK Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. It produces large, red petaled flowers that can be as tall as 3 feet! The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn.  These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring! The pitchers are variable with the lower part of the tubes green, tan or purplish red. The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column and lid are nearly pure white laced with a network of veins in green to pink to red to purple.  \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese plants have a spectacular dark venation! These are from famed grower Christian Klein and are divisions of seed grown plants from “Near Althea, Florida.”\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58959203106976,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58959203139744,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/products\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_purple_and_white_CK.heic?v=1791404533"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-green-and-white-potted-copy","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “Green and White” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia leucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e “Green and White” is a classic CalCarn plant! Damon has had this plant since he was a kid! He selected it for its lovely green and white coloring, and while it is not anthocyanin-free, and can have some red coloration, it is very lovely. One of its most noticeable features is that it is the most vigorous \u003cem\u003eleucophylla \u003c\/em\u003ewe’ve ever grown! It produces lots and lots of divisions with ridiculously long rhizomes. It’s a perfect plant for breeding because it can lend vigor to its hybrids and its tall, luminous, green, and white beauty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions. X-large divisions may not be taller than large divisions, but they usually have multiple growth points, so they will grow vigorously and have more pitchers. This is a later-growing species, so you may not see a lot of pitchers until later in fall or early winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":67599965946016,"sku":null,"price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":67599965978784,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":56877758742688,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":56877758775456,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Green_and_White_Pitcher_Plant.jpg?v=1784144090"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-calen-s-super-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla ‘Calen’s Super’ Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThis plant was bred by Calen Hall and gifted to us 5+ years ago. It immediately became one of Damons very favorite \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e in the collection! It kind of has it all! For starters its fall pitchers are cartoonishly large with an incredibly wide mouth and fat, hot pink lip. Damon has been using it extensively in his breeding program to make the next generation of giants! (The first photo is of Damon with our big breeding plant! You’ll receive divisions of this plant.)\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003cspan\u003eThese are divisions. X-large divisions may not be taller than large divisions, but they usually have multiple growth points, so they will grow vigorously and have more pitchers. This is a later-growing species, so you may not see a lot of pitchers until later in fall or early winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":56877992902816,"sku":null,"price":399.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":67613629087904,"sku":null,"price":449.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Calen_Super_with_Damon.jpg?v=1791404773"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-franklin-co-fl-axe-rc-potted-copy","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla \"Franklin Co, FL, AxE\" RC Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. It produces large, red petaled flowers that can be as tall as 3 feet! The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn.  These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions of spectacularly pink colored plants!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Rob Co","offers":[{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":67736769527968,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58005119959200,"sku":null,"price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Franklin_Co_FL_AxE_RC.jpg?v=1792444686"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-stretch-x-solid-white-select-dgl33-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla ( “Stretch” x “Solid White” ) “Select” DGL33 Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. It produces large, red petaled flowers that can be as tall as 3 feet! The first pitchers of the season are usually thinner and more delicate than the second crop of pitchers produced in late summer to early autumn. These later pitchers put on a spectacular show; they can be as tall as the flowers were in spring! The pitchers are variable with the lower part of the tubes green, tan or purplish red. The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column and lid are nearly pure white laced with a network of veins in green to pink to red to purple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a select clone with very tall, wide mouthed, super white pitchers! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"David Green","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58131540476064,"sku":null,"price":79.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":67715898474656,"sku":null,"price":89.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Stretch_x_Solid_White_pitcher_plant.jpg?v=1784063640"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-alba-yellow-flowered-mix-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “alba yellow flowered mix” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e is a beautiful, tall, white-colored pitcher plant. These plants grow spring pitchers that are lovely but the real display comes in late summer\/autumn when they grow their tallest, most beautiful pitchers! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are a seed-grown mix of alba plants with yellow flowers. While there is a lot of variation in color and form, each of these plants is luminescent-white and glowing! Some plants have red venation and some have green or a mix!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58583439081632,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58583439114400,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58583439147168,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":58583439179936,"sku":null,"price":54.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_alba_yellow_flower.jpg?v=1788545132"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-bicolor-santa-rosa-co-fl-x-leucophylla-fl-red-forms-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla “Bicolor Santa Rosa Co, FL” x leucophylla “FL red form” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eLeucophylla \u003c\/em\u003e‘Bicolor’ is a very sought after plant from Randy Troop, who’s been collecting \u003cem\u003eSarracenia\u003c\/em\u003e for decades. In the fall, the throat of ‘Bicolor’ flushes entirely pink! We bred this cross to heighten the colors in these \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e. We are hoping that by crossing ‘Bicolor’ with a beautiful red \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e from Florida, that these will have fantastic red coloration possibly with pin blushing throat!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seed-grown plants so there is variation in their size, color and form. These are very pitcher-plentiful \u003cem\u003eleucophylla \u003c\/em\u003eand the sizing refers to the amount of pitchers and rhizome maturity, but they are on the shorter side.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58583721771168,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58583721803936,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58583721836704,"sku":null,"price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":58583721869472,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Bicolor_Santa_Rosa_Co_FL_x_leucophylla_FL_red_form_close_up.jpg?v=1788545028"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-var-alba-seed-grown-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla var alba seed-grown Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla \u003c\/i\u003evar\u003ci\u003e alba\u003c\/i\u003e signifies nearly pure white pitchers in the upper pitcher and lid! These are some of the most highly prized and sought-after of the \u003cem\u003eSarracenia \u003c\/em\u003ebecause of their luminous beauty! Large pitchers with lacy lids open on stately, tall white pitchers!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are seed grown plants and there is a lot of variation in their coloration, not all will be pure white and many have pink on their pitchers when they open, slowly blushing more white over time. Others have green venation and some are pure white. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58951088603296,"sku":null,"price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58951082836128,"sku":null,"price":34.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58951088636064,"sku":null,"price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_var_alba_seed-grown.jpg?v=1790629769"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-neon-pink-baldwin-co-al-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla \"Neon Pink, Baldwin Co, AL\" Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. These plants are divisions from the \"Neon Pink” clone and come from Baldwin County, Alabama. They are phenomenally neon pink with ruffled lids! The lower part of the pitchers is a rich, deep pink. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions and are in limited supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":58959207628960,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium Division","offer_id":58959207661728,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":58959207006368,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Neon_Pink_Baldwin_Co_AL.jpg?v=1790629015"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-baldwin-co-puffy-cheeks-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla Baldwin Co. “Puffy Cheeks” Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e‘Puffy Cheeks’ is one of Mike Wangs favorite plants! It consistently produces two flushes of pitchers in fall which is very unusual. But the best part about this plant is its distinctive puffed out pitcher, right at the mouth of the plant, like it’s holding its breath with its cheeks puffed out!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":58959213625504,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":58959213658272,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":58959213691040,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":58959213723808,"sku":null,"price":124.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Baldwin_Co_Puffy_Cheeks.jpg?v=1790628775"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-hurricane-creek-white-clone-e-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla 'Hurricane Creek White' Clone E Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions of “Clone E” from Mike Wang (the first photo is from Mike Wang.) Hurricane Creek used to be a site where \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e grew in the wild. Unfortunately all of the plants were destroyed and the site was turned into a highway overpass several years ago. This site was always known to have some of the most beautiful \u003cem\u003eleucophylla\u003c\/em\u003e; the upper part of the pitchers were all almost entirely white with little to no venation. Luckily, before it was destroyed, seeds were collected. These seedlings were created by us by crossing two of the original plants.  There is some natural variation but so far most of the pitchers are characteristic from this site. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eClone E is known for not only its beauty but also has produced the biggest pitchers of all the Hurricane Creek Clones! X-Large plants aren’t taller than the large sized, but instead have multiple growth points.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"California Carnivores","offers":[{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":67715887923360,"sku":null,"price":74.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":67715879272608,"sku":null,"price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_hurricane_creek_clone_E_Mike_wang.jpg?v=1792185975"},{"product_id":"sarracenia-leucophylla-hot-pink-rc-potted","title":"Sarracenia leucophylla \"Hot Pink\" RC Potted","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eSa\u003c\/em\u003e\u003ci\u003erracenia leucophylla\u003c\/i\u003e, the white trumpet, is considered by many to be the most beautiful species of American pitcher plant. These plants are divisions of a phenomenally neon pink clone! The lower part of the pitchers is a rich, deep pink. The upper portion of the tube, mouth, column, and lid are nearly pure white, laced with a network of veins in hot pink! \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese are divisions and are in limited supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003eDORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES\/HYBRID.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e The pitchers turn brown and die back to the rhizome, or non-carnivorous leaves (phyllodia) grow during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Sarracenia look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eCare Instructions:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eGrowth Habit:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia primarily grow along the Southeastern coastal plain of the United States. They grow pitchers, which are modified leaves, seasonally that can vary in height, color, and size depending on the species or hybrid. The pitchers can die back during the growing season, but new pitchers will grow throughout the spring and summer. The pitchers start to grow in spring, and many grow as the year progresses; in summer, they will be at their best. In summer, you may see brown or black on your pitchers, which can be normal nectar burn or crisping from heat. As Fall comes on, the pitchers may start to die back, turning brown, and by winter, many or all of the pitchers are brown, but the rhizome remains healthy and intact throughout winter dormancy even if you cannot see anything growing. Sarracenia have brown, black, or white roots and do not generally have many of them. The rhizome can be brown and still be healthy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSun:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Full sun. Sarracenia require lots of direct sun to grow and form pitchers properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several pitchers to \"burn\" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. Sarracenia can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, but they will require a grow light in most circumstances due to the amount of light the plant needs. Grow lights should be 6-12” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. Sarracenia generally are not a good candidate for a terrarium as they need intense light and get quite tall. Shorter species like Sarracenia purpurea will do better in a terrarium. Grow outdoors if possible for best results.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eAlways keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Sarracenia are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter, when the plants are dormant, you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eTemperature and Dormancy:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 100F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 105F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eIf you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eThe fridge method: remove the plants from pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Pot them back up in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eSoil and Repotting: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eWe prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/california-carnivores-professional-grade-peat-and-perlite-mix\"\u003eorder here\u003c\/a\u003e. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Sarracenia every 1-3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eFeeding and Fertilizer:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003e Sarracenia will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from fertilizing, both a foliar fertilizer and feeding the pitchers. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1\/4 teaspoon of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/growing-supplies\/products\/maxsea-16-16-16-fertilizer\"\u003eMaxSea\u003c\/a\u003e into one gallon of water and then apply to the pitchers, and inside the pitchers, with a mister bottle or a watering can. Osmocote slow-release flower and vegetable pellets can be dropped into the pitchers with a bit of distilled water. Pellets can burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest; that is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s3\"\u003eMore Information: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s4\"\u003eFor further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/youtube.com\/@california_carnivores?si=zsqwmumt4l0uctqs\"\u003eYouTube\u003c\/a\u003e channel.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Rob Co","offers":[{"title":"Small Division","offer_id":67736776638624,"sku":null,"price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large Division","offer_id":67736770576544,"sku":null,"price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large Division","offer_id":67736776671392,"sku":null,"price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/files\/Sarracenia_leucophylla_Hot_Pink_RC.jpg?v=1792444983"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1043\/9998\/collections\/65FC3DFC-06EB-43CE-B1A8-5F7BDBF36826.jpg?v=1789672257","url":"https:\/\/www.californiacarnivores.com\/collections\/sarracenia-leucophylla.oembed?page=2","provider":"California Carnivores","version":"1.0","type":"link"}