My plant arrived in perfect condition
I ordered a small. Definitely small. Has put up 2 new pitchers since I got it and even had a little D. Capensis, D. Rotundifolia, and D. Binata and some little Utricularia hitchhiking in it! Definitely worth it.
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Temperate/Outdoor Sundews (Drosera)
These versatile sundews are cold hardy and survive the cold by dying down in winter, some to their roots and others to buds called "hibernacula."
Our temperate sundews grow outdoors year-round, and we love seeing the sun shining through their massed tentacles of glistening dew at sunset. They are a fantastic addition to any bog! Check out our care tips here.
Please note: depending on the species and the conditions seasonally, these plants go dormant from September to February. They may arrive with little to no leaves. During this period, the plants die back to the crown and will grow vigorously again in spring.
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17 products
Drosera binata 'Octopus' is phenomenal forked leaf sundew! The leaves, at maturity, are huge and fork over and over! Created be Christian Klein, this is a hybrid between binata var binata and binata var dichotoma. This beast of a plant can fork 28 times at maturity and has gigantic leaves!
The plants we are shipping will be 1-2” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera binata is a forked-leaf sundew that has thick black roots from which long, thin petioles arise. The leaves branch into two points and the flowers are clustered on tall stems. The leaves can be up to 10” tall. The plant spread into massive clumps. Drosera binata is a hardy and easy plant that will often regrow from the roots if killed by a freeze or other mishap. Most forms of binata in cultivation are sterile or have self-incompatible flowers. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves.
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They can also regrow from the roots after a freeze. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera filiformis var. filiformis comes from the Florida Panhandle. This thread-leaf sundew can grow up to twenty inches tall! The long, thin, thread like leaves are covered in red tentacles which glitter and glisten in the sun; making it a lovely addition to any bog garden.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
These thread leaf sundews come from New Jersey. Thread leaf sundews have an amazing magic all their own; in spring and summer they send up many leaves of long, slowly unfurling dew covered leaves that catch lots of insects but also glisten like a curtain of crystals in the sun.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
These are a beautiful, true filiformis, grown from seeds collected at the Old Dock Site in North Carolina. We are super excited to be selling this new, more vigorous filiformis.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera filiformis ‘Carolina Giant” is a lovely, delicate threadleaf sundew with red tinted dew! The second photo is of our display pot, full of mature plants, the third photo is an example of the plant you will receive.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: This is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera filiformis f. viridis is an anthocyanin-free filiformis meaning it lacks red and purple pigments. These plants are all luminous green with delicate white flowers!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera filiformis v. floridana f. albiflora was discovered by our friend Jason Ksepka. He found them growing amidst the normally pink flowered, all red filiformis in Florida. Unusually, these plants have white flowers which look beautifully against their red leaves. We LOVE these filiformis! The deep red of these sparkling sundews is a show stopper in the afternoon light and the white flowers highlight the deep red color. This is one of Alison’s favorite temperate sundews!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera filiformis var. gigantea This thread-leaf sundew can grow very tall! The long, thin, thread like leaves are covered in red tentacles which glitter and glisten in the sun; making it a lovely addition to any bog garden.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
This is a beautiful temperate form of Drosera intermedia, native to Eastern Canada, the US, and Europe. In nature it often grows semi-aquatically around lakes in pure peat moss. In cultivation, it does best in un-drained bowls of waterlogged peat. It forms a tight bud to overwinter cold conditions. Great for the outdoor bog garden and it will reseed.
These have been grown under 30% shade cloth and are lightly colored, best to transition to more full sun to reduce burning.
The plants we are shipping will be 1-3” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera intermedia forms a lovely rosette of thin petioles with rounded leaves covered in dew. These will grow to 3-4” tall and form clumps over time or reseed in their pots. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. This plant will make seed and is easy to grow from seed. Drosera have black roots and their stems can be black or brown as well.
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. This species particularly likes water-logged conditions and do best in non-draining container. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave or go dormant afterwards. If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. In winter these plants will die back to small bud. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
We love the stunning Drosera intermedia x capillaris! This little sundew boasts temperate parents, making it a perfect year-round outdoor plant in areas with mild winters. These delicate plants will be 2” tall and wide at maturity. Each paddle-shaped leaf is candy-apple-red and covered in glistening drops of sticky dew. They are unbelievably beautiful, especially when grown en masse.
The plants we are shipping will be 1-2” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera intermedia x capillaris forms a lovely rosette of thin petioles with rounded leaves covered in dew. These will grow to 2-3” and form clumps over time. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. This is a sterile hybrid and will not produce viable seed but it easily propagated from leaf cuttings. Drosera have thin black roots.
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors and it must receive a winter dormancy; the dormant buds often die if kept too warm!
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. This species particularly likes water-logged conditions and do best in non-draining container. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 20 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave or go dormant afterwards. If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. In winter these plants will die back to small bud. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera tokaiensis was formerly grown as Drosera spatulata 'Kansai'. It is a fertile natural hybrid between rotundifolia and spatulata from Japan. Some argue that it is a stable species. Regardless, it is a nice easy sundew with spoon-shaped leaves that flush red in strong light. This sundew tends to forms clumps of charming, dew covered rosettes and flowers readily.
The plants we are shipping are about 1-2” across.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: This is a rosetted sundew meaning it grows leaves in a round, rosetted pattern. New leaves grow from the crown and older leaves die back, the plant will grow taller on brown stalks with the older leaves building up under the new leaves, forming a tall skirt of old leaves. It is normal for these plants to have high leaf turnover, meaning the leaves die back frequently and new leaves grow in. This is a compact species, usually no larger than 2-3” across. It forms pretty pink flowers and can easily be grown from seed. Sundews have black roots generally, do not be alarmed when you see the roots are black!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown very happily indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. These will do well in a terrarium as long as they can get good light. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are subtropical plants, meaning they grow throughout the year without dormancy requirements and prefer warmer temperatures but can tolerate a brief frost. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 45 degrees - 90F. These plants do appreciate a 10-20 degree drop in temperature at night. They do not need or require a dormancy, making them an ideal houseplant.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Found along the Gulf Coast, Drosera filiformis var. tracyi is one of our favorite thread leaf sundews! This large, showy sundew can reach up to 20 inches and is a soft green color with pinkish glands and pink flowers. Grouped together, where their dew can catch the sunlight, these are show stoppers!
These are from Brooks Co, GA, and it’s even more dewy than our favorite tracyi from Bruce Co, nicknamed “Juicy Bruce” around the nursery! Brooks Co has very tall, thick, dewy leaves!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera tracyi is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Found along the Gulf Coast, Drosera filiformis var. tracyi is one of our favorite thread leaf sundews! This large, showy sundew can reach up to 20 inches and is a soft green color with pinkish glands and pink flowers. Grouped together, where their dew can catch the sunlight, these are show stoppers! This cultivar is from Bruce, Florida, and we’ve nicknamed it “Juicy Bruce” around the nursery because it is extra dewy and luscious!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera tracyi is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Found along the Gulf Coast, Drosera tracyi is one of our favorite thread leaf sundews! This large, showy sundew can reach up to 20 inches and is a soft green color with pinkish glands and pink flowers. Grouped where their dew can catch the sunlight, these are show stoppers!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Found along the Gulf Coast, Drosera tracyi is one of our favorite thread leaf sundews! This large, showy sundew can reach up to 20 inches and is a soft green color with pinkish glands and pink flowers normally but this selection is anthocyanin-free! With all green leaves and white flowers, these tracyi glow when the sun hits them. These are very special; we’re so excited to be able to offer this rare, white-flowered form!
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Drosera filiformis is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Joe Mazrimas produced this attractive thread leaf by crossing Drosera filiformis var. tracyi with Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis 'Florida Giant'. It vigorously forms clumps and has reddish glands and is cold tolerant. As a cultivar it should only be reproduced through leaf cuttings and the seed should be destroyed.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: This is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
Drosera x 'Portland Sunrise' is a cultivar was recently described John Brittnacher of the ICPS seed bank. It was selected for its cold hardiness. It looks similar to the Drosera filiformis that we grow from New Jersey with relatively short, reddish leaves. Mature plants top off at 6-8" tall. It re-seeds but ours were created via leaf cutting from a clone directly from John.
The plants we are shipping will be 2-4” in size. The first three photos are of our mature pot, containing many of these plants, you will receive one plant!
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
DORMANT SEASONALLY, STARTING AS EARLY AS OCTOBER AND LASTING AS LATE AS MARCH, DEPENDING ON THE CONDITIONS AND SPECIES/HYBRID. The leaves turn brown and die back to the crown during this time. Please see the final photo to see how Drosera can look when dormant. They will begin to grow vigorously again in Spring when photoperiods lengthen and temperatures increase.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: This is a thread-leaf sundew with long, thin, dew covered leaves. These plants have thick black roots and die back to a bud in winter, a white fluffy hair can form on this bud, this is normal. They can easily be propagated by leaf or root cuttings or from seed as most are self fertile. Drosera have high leaf turnover meaning that their leaves die back frequently but new one grow in, you can remove black, dead leaves. These plants will bloom profusely!
Sun: Full sun. Drosera require lots of direct sun to grow and form dew properly. In many areas, they can be grown outdoors in full sun. If you live in a very hot AND very dry place like Arizona or Sacramento, for example, you will want to grow your plants in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun or under 30% shade cloth. It is common for several leaves to "burn" and die back when you first place your plant into the sun; your plant is acclimating to your conditions, and in most cases, new leaves will soon grow and be fully acclimated. These small Drosera should be carefully acclimated to the full sun if introduced in the hot and sunny months of summer as smaller plants can burn too much and die. Drosera can be grown indoors on extremely sunny windowsills that receive all-day sun, or under grow lights. Grow lights should be 6-10” from the plant, depending on the light, and on a 10-12 hour day length. If your plant is not producing dew, it most likely needs more light. It can take a few weeks for a plant to regenerate this dew after shipping or making changes to its growing conditions. If grown indoors, they will want a winter dormancy. We recommend growing this species outdoors.
Water & Humidity: Always keep them in a saucer with a few inches of distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water. Never let them dry out, especially in the hot summer months. Drosera are bog plants that prefer water-logged conditions unless you live somewhere both very hot AND extremely humid, like Alabama. In that case, let the water tray dry out for a day or two between refills. Always use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater only. These plants are sensitive to their water quality, and giving them mineral and salt-free water is very important. In winter you can let them dry out a bit between rain storms, but do not let the soil get so dry that it pulls away from the edges of the pots. Be sure to supplement water as needed in between rains in winter. These plants appreciate humidity of at least 40%.
Temperature and Dormancy: These are warm-temperate plants, meaning they need warm summers and chilly winters. They will do best grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 15 degrees - 90F degrees and can take a brief freeze or high-temperature spike up to 100F degrees for a short period. If nighttime temps drop below 15 but rise again during the day above 40, your plant will be fine outside. They may burn back a bit in summer if exposed to a heatwave.
If you live in an area with very cold winters, where nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with winter dormancy: the garage method, mulching in, or the fridge method. Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo-periods and cooler temperatures in the 40-60's F. While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, in the long term, your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period. Please note, these plants die back to a dormant winter bud; large, blackish and hairy. Often a fine white hair-like fluff will form on this bud as well.
The garage method: Bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, where the nighttime temperatures will dip down to 50-60F. Keep it well watered during this period, do not let it dry out, and put it outside again when the outside nighttime temperatures increase consistently above 20F.
The mulch method: Mulch them in very, very well outdoors. Pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them and freezing the roots. You can also dig the pots into the ground and then mulch heavily on top.
The fridge method: leave your plant potted and place the pot in a resealable bag, and put the bag into the refrigerator. You can also treat the pot with super as a preventative before placing in the fridge. Leave them in the fridge from October to February, periodically checking on them to ensure they are still moist and not growing mold or fungus. Bring them out in February. You can vary the timing to align with your outside nighttime temperatures so that your plants can come out of dormancy when it is safe to place them back outside. You can leave them in the fridge for an extended period if you have very long winters.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 3 years in winter when they are dormant. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. They do well in tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.