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Dionaea m. 'King Henry' Potted They arrived really healthy and acclimated quickly!
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Drosera capensis “Dark Maroon” Potted Beautiful and healthy!
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Non-Carnivorous Plants
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9 products
The California stream orchid (Epipactis gigantea) grows in permanently wet soil, making it a beautiful and well-behaved addition to any bog. It blooms in the early Spring and goes dormant in the late Summer through Winter. When happy, it will slowly form clumps. These plants are divisions and are blooming in size.
These plants have a seasonal dormancy and can start to die back in late summer/early fall in many areas. If you order them from August to February, they may arrive dormant but will soon grow!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Epipactis gigantea forms tall spikes in spring with lance-shaped leaves. As the plant spreads via rhizome, more and more tall stems pop up from the soil. Flowers bloom in succession off of tall stems, dainty and detailed. The flowers can bloom from spring through summer; this bloom time varies based on your seasonal conditions. The plants die back in late summer/early fall and, by winter, can be cut back to the ground. In winter, there can be no visible growth above ground.
Sun: Part sun to dappled full sun. These plants do best grown outside in part sun or even part shade. They can be grown in dappled full sun as long as they receive protection from the afternoon sun and are always well watered. Full sun can be tolerated, but often, the plants will grow shorter and have more uneven leaf color. We grow them in the same pots as your Sarracenia, where the Sarracenia pitchers will naturally shade much of the plant and rhizome.
Water & Humidity: Always sit in at least two inches of distilled or purified water; these plants prefer deep saucers of water or undrained containers to recreate their waterlogged conditions. Use distilled, rainwater, or reverse osmosis water if possible. These plants grow streamside in their native habitats, seasonally submerged at times, and do not tolerate drying out. Keep them sitting in the water even in winter. These plants do not need humidity.
Temperature: 15 degrees - 100 degrees, needs protection from colder winters and always keep very wet when hot.
Dormancy: All Epipactis have a winter dormancy starting in fall and ending in spring. Many of the stems will turn brown and die back during this time. Leave them outdoors in the sun, sitting in distilled water during this period. If you live in an area that snows over winter, move them indoors on a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage, still in sitting sun and watering with distilled water. Or mulch them heavily on the top and sides.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves.
Soil & Repotting: The plant comes potted in a custom mix of four parts: peat moss to one part perlite. Repot every few years, and you’ll find many divisions that can be taken from this vigorous plant!
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Disa Golden Age has medium-sized orange-red flowers. It is a hybrid of Disa California Gold and Disa uniflora, which are pictured in the listing. California Gold is a stunning orange-flowered plant with smaller flowers. Combining that with huge, color-rich uniflora makes for orange-red, larger-flowered plants with lots of flowers!
These are assorted clones from tissue culture.
To learn more about Disa Golden Age, check out orchids.org/grexes/disa-golden-age.
While Disa are not carnivorous, they make great companion plants, growing well alongside Nepenthes.
The plant you will receive will have short leaves, 1-3” high, and be in 2-4” pots. Some of the leaves may die back after shipping; this is normal! These small plants are blooming size and can bloom in the first year. See our care tips below for more information.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Disa orchids grow primarily in South Africa. They grow from fleshy roots and tubers, sometimes spreading by stolons to form colonies in their pots. They have short, lance-shaped leaves up to 6” long that die back frequently. It is not uncommon for these leaves to look a little rough, yellow at the tips, and in various states of dying back. Don’t worry; you’re not growing these plants for the beauty of their leaves! It is best to remove dying leaves to reduce the chances of rot. While it’s normal for the leaves to look a little rough, if all the leaves die back, the tuber may be rotting. If you see all the leaves turning yellow, reassess your conditions and make changes; do not water from overhead, ensure the roots are cool, check airflow, and potentially repot. One exception to this is that the plants will die back after flowering. This is normal. However, this is the most likely time for your plant to rot. Be careful not to water from overhead and watch for new shoots to grow from new tubers or stolons; when new growth emerges, repot your plants. The plants flower in spring most commonly and can be mature enough to flower at 1-3 years old. Thick stems will hold their showy flowers. Some species will have one or two large flowers, like uniflora, while others, like kewensis, will have long stems with multiple, smaller blooms. Hybrids will combine the best of both. The flowers can last for quite some time.
Sun: Partial sun. It is best grown in greenhouses with 30% shade cloth during summer months or under partial light when grown under grow lights. If under grow lights, keep lights on a 10-12 hour day length and place plants 10-12” below light depending on light. Disa can tolerate more light when grown under lights as long as their roots are cool and temperatures are kept under 70 degrees. Or place pots farther from the lights or to the side of the lights to reduce intensity. They can also be grown indoors on sunny window sills if the pots do not get too hot from the sun.
Water & Humidity: Many Disa orchids are water-loving species that grow along stream banks, sometimes seasonally submerged in their native habitat. These species like to be sitting in water most of the time. They prefer water with no minerals and salts, so only use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. They do best when tray watered or set in flow tables; do not water from above as the water can pool in the crown of the leaves and lead to rot. Set your pots in trays or deep saucers, and fill them with up to an inch of water. In summer, keep the water full at all times. In winter, wait for the water tray or saucer to dry out and then refill. Disa prefers cool roots in high temperatures; keeping the trays well watered in summer helps with this. Disa appreciate high humidity of 60% or more. Disa like good airflow, so as much as they like humidity, we do not recommend growing in a terrarium for these plants.
Temperature: 30-80F. These plants prefer to be kept no higher than 70 degrees but can tolerate a brief heat wave up to 100 or even a light frost if protected. If temperatures are over 70, keep the roots cool and the plant out of full sun. As long as the heat does not sustain through the night, you plant should tolerate this brief heat, with its roots cool. You can pour cool, refrigerated water into the tray or set up a flow table to keep cool. While we do not recommend exposing them to a frost, they can die from it, if day time temps heat up over 40 degrees, they can tolerate it (but it is still risky so we advice not exposing Disa to anything below 30). Disa need a night time drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees.
Dormancy: None needed or required. In winter your plant may slow its growth or grow shorter leaves, this is normal.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves of your plant with a mister bottle.
Soil & Repotting: Disa do best in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. Or just New Zealand sphagnum moss. You can order our Nepenthes soil to use for your Disa. Disa should be repotted frequently, every year. The best time to repot is after flowering. After your plant flowers it will die back and when you see new shoots growing, carefully pull apart the tubers and pot them up. The roots can be quite brittle so be gentle when repotting. You can use a wide range of pots including mesh orchid pots as long as you keep well watered as these pots dry out faster. Larger Disa prefer tall pots.
More Information: For more information, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Disa Lilian Rose x Disa uniflora Table Mountain should have large, orange-red flowers. We haven’t bloomed this cross yet but the first photo is of Disa Lilian Rose and the second is Disa uniflora.
These are assorted clones from tissue culture. While Disa are not carnivorous, they make great companion plants, growing well alongside Nepenthes.
The plant you will receive will have short leaves, 1-3” high, and be in 2-4” pots. Some of the leaves may die back after shipping; this is normal! These small plants are blooming size and can bloom in the first year. See our care tips below for more information.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Disa orchids grow primarily in South Africa. They grow from fleshy roots and tubers, sometimes spreading by stolons to form colonies in their pots. They have short, lance-shaped leaves up to 6” long that die back frequently. It is not uncommon for these leaves to look a little rough, yellow at the tips, and in various states of dying back. Don’t worry; you’re not growing these plants for the beauty of their leaves! It is best to remove dying leaves to reduce the chances of rot. While it’s normal for the leaves to look a little rough, if all the leaves die back, the tuber may be rotting. If you see all the leaves turning yellow, reassess your conditions and make changes; do not water from overhead, ensure the roots are cool, check airflow, and potentially repot. One exception to this is that the plants will die back after flowering. This is normal. However, this is the most likely time for your plant to rot. Be careful not to water from overhead and watch for new shoots to grow from new tubers or stolons; when new growth emerges, repot your plants. The plants flower in spring most commonly and can be mature enough to flower at 1-3 years old. Thick stems will hold their showy flowers. Some species will have one or two large flowers, like uniflora, while others, like kewensis, will have long stems with multiple, smaller blooms. Hybrids will combine the best of both. The flowers can last for quite some time.
Sun: Partial sun. It is best grown in greenhouses with 30% shade cloth during summer months or under partial light when grown under grow lights. If under grow lights, keep lights on a 10-12 hour day length and place plants 10-12” below light depending on light. Disa can tolerate more light when grown under lights as long as their roots are cool and temperatures are kept under 70 degrees. Or place pots farther from the lights or to the side of the lights to reduce intensity. They can also be grown indoors on sunny window sills if the pots do not get too hot from the sun.
Water & Humidity: Many Disa orchids are water-loving species that grow along stream banks, sometimes seasonally submerged in their native habitat. These species like to be sitting in water most of the time. They prefer water with no minerals and salts, so only use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. They do best when tray watered or set in flow tables; do not water from above as the water can pool in the crown of the leaves and lead to rot. Set your pots in trays or deep saucers, and fill them with up to an inch of water. In summer, keep the water full at all times. In winter, wait for the water tray or saucer to dry out and then refill. Disa prefers cool roots in high temperatures; keeping the trays well watered in summer helps with this. Disa appreciate high humidity of 60% or more. Disa like good airflow, so as much as they like humidity, we do not recommend growing in a terrarium for these plants.
Temperature: 30-80F. These plants prefer to be kept no higher than 70 degrees but can tolerate a brief heat wave up to 100 or even a light frost if protected. If temperatures are over 70, keep the roots cool and the plant out of full sun. As long as the heat does not sustain through the night, you plant should tolerate this brief heat, with its roots cool. You can pour cool, refrigerated water into the tray or set up a flow table to keep cool. While we do not recommend exposing them to a frost, they can die from it, if day time temps heat up over 40 degrees, they can tolerate it (but it is still risky so we advice not exposing Disa to anything below 30). Disa need a night time drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees.
Dormancy: None needed or required. In winter your plant may slow its growth or grow shorter leaves, this is normal.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves of your plant with a mister bottle.
Soil & Repotting: Disa do best in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. Or just New Zealand sphagnum moss. You can order our Nepenthes soil to use for your Disa. Disa should be repotted frequently, every year. The best time to repot is after flowering. After your plant flowers it will die back and when you see new shoots growing, carefully pull apart the tubers and pot them up. The roots can be quite brittle so be gentle when repotting. You can use a wide range of pots including mesh orchid pots as long as you keep well watered as these pots dry out faster. Larger Disa prefer tall pots.
More Information: For more information, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Disa uniflora is one of the first Disa we grew, and it was the first one we fell in love with. These plants have large, electric red flowers. We haven’t grown each clone to flower yet, but each clone offers exciting possibilities!
These are assorted clones of uniflora "red flower” from tissue culture.
While Disa are not carnivorous, they make great companion plants, growing well alongside Nepenthes.
The plant you will receive will have short leaves, 1-3” high, and be in 2-4” pots. Some of the leaves may die back after shipping; this is normal! These small plants are blooming size and can bloom in the first year. See our care tips below for more information.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Disa orchids grow primarily in South Africa. They grow from fleshy roots and tubers, sometimes spreading by stolons to form colonies in their pots. They have short, lance-shaped leaves up to 6” long that die back frequently. It is not uncommon for these leaves to look a little rough, yellow at the tips, and in various states of dying back. Don’t worry; you’re not growing these plants for the beauty of their leaves! It is best to remove dying leaves to reduce the chances of rot. While it’s normal for the leaves to look a little rough, if all the leaves die back, the tuber may be rotting. If you see all the leaves turning yellow, reassess your conditions and make changes; do not water from overhead, ensure the roots are cool, check airflow, and potentially repot. One exception to this is that the plants will die back after flowering. This is normal. However, this is the most likely time for your plant to rot. Be careful not to water from overhead and watch for new shoots to grow from new tubers or stolons; when new growth emerges, repot your plants. The plants flower in spring most commonly and can be mature enough to flower at 1-3 years old. Thick stems will hold their showy flowers. Some species will have one or two large flowers, like uniflora, while others, like kewensis, will have long stems with multiple, smaller blooms. Hybrids will combine the best of both. The flowers can last for quite some time.
Sun: Partial sun. It is best grown in greenhouses with 30% shade cloth during summer months or under partial light when grown under grow lights. If under grow lights, keep lights on a 10-12 hour day length and place plants 10-12” below light depending on light. Disa can tolerate more light when grown under lights as long as their roots are cool and temperatures are kept under 70 degrees. Or place pots farther from the lights or to the side of the lights to reduce intensity. They can also be grown indoors on sunny window sills if the pots do not get too hot from the sun.
Water & Humidity: Many Disa orchids are water-loving species that grow along stream banks, sometimes seasonally submerged in their native habitat. These species like to be sitting in water most of the time. They prefer water with no minerals and salts, so only use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. They do best when tray watered or set in flow tables; do not water from above as the water can pool in the crown of the leaves and lead to rot. Set your pots in trays or deep saucers, and fill them with up to an inch of water. In summer, keep the water full at all times. In winter, wait for the water tray or saucer to dry out and then refill. Disa prefers cool roots in high temperatures; keeping the trays well watered in summer helps with this. Disa appreciate high humidity of 60% or more. Disa like good airflow, so as much as they like humidity, we do not recommend growing in a terrarium for these plants.
Temperature: 30-80F. These plants prefer to be kept no higher than 70 degrees but can tolerate a brief heat wave up to 100 or even a light frost if protected. If temperatures are over 70, keep the roots cool and the plant out of full sun. As long as the heat does not sustain through the night, you plant should tolerate this brief heat, with its roots cool. You can pour cool, refrigerated water into the tray or set up a flow table to keep cool. While we do not recommend exposing them to a frost, they can die from it, if day time temps heat up over 40 degrees, they can tolerate it (but it is still risky so we advice not exposing Disa to anything below 30). Disa need a night time drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees.
Dormancy: None needed or required. In winter your plant may slow its growth or grow shorter leaves, this is normal.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves of your plant with a mister bottle.
Soil & Repotting: Disa do best in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. Or just New Zealand sphagnum moss. You can order our Nepenthes soil to use for your Disa. Disa should be repotted frequently, every year. The best time to repot is after flowering. After your plant flowers it will die back and when you see new shoots growing, carefully pull apart the tubers and pot them up. The roots can be quite brittle so be gentle when repotting. You can use a wide range of pots including mesh orchid pots as long as you keep well watered as these pots dry out faster. Larger Disa prefer tall pots.
More Information: For more information, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Disa uniflora “Yellow Flower” is one of our new favorites! These large, yellow flowers are so cheerful and abundant; just like uniflora red.
We have several clones of uniflora "yellow flower" and each one is slightly different. We haven't bloomed these all out to see the differences yet but each one is sure to be fun and beautiful!
While Disa are not carnivorous, they make great companion plants, growing well alongside Nepenthes.
The plant you will receive will have short leaves, 1-3” high, and be in 2-4” pots. Some of the leaves may die back after shipping; this is normal! These small plants are blooming size and can bloom in the first year. See our care tips below for more information.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Disa orchids grow primarily in South Africa. They grow from fleshy roots and tubers, sometimes spreading by stolons to form colonies in their pots. They have short, lance-shaped leaves up to 6” long that die back frequently. It is not uncommon for these leaves to look a little rough, yellow at the tips, and in various states of dying back. Don’t worry; you’re not growing these plants for the beauty of their leaves! It is best to remove dying leaves to reduce the chances of rot. While it’s normal for the leaves to look a little rough, if all the leaves die back, the tuber may be rotting. If you see all the leaves turning yellow, reassess your conditions and make changes; do not water from overhead, ensure the roots are cool, check airflow, and potentially repot. One exception to this is that the plants will die back after flowering. This is normal. However, this is the most likely time for your plant to rot. Be careful not to water from overhead and watch for new shoots to grow from new tubers or stolons; when new growth emerges, repot your plants. The plants flower in spring most commonly and can be mature enough to flower at 1-3 years old. Thick stems will hold their showy flowers. Some species will have one or two large flowers, like uniflora, while others, like kewensis, will have long stems with multiple, smaller blooms. Hybrids will combine the best of both. The flowers can last for quite some time.
Sun: Partial sun. It is best grown in greenhouses with 30% shade cloth during summer months or under partial light when grown under grow lights. If under grow lights, keep lights on a 10-12 hour day length and place plants 10-12” below light depending on light. Disa can tolerate more light when grown under lights as long as their roots are cool and temperatures are kept under 70 degrees. Or place pots farther from the lights or to the side of the lights to reduce intensity. They can also be grown indoors on sunny window sills if the pots do not get too hot from the sun.
Water & Humidity: Many Disa orchids are water-loving species that grow along stream banks, sometimes seasonally submerged in their native habitat. These species like to be sitting in water most of the time. They prefer water with no minerals and salts, so only use distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. They do best when tray watered or set in flow tables; do not water from above as the water can pool in the crown of the leaves and lead to rot. Set your pots in trays or deep saucers, and fill them with up to an inch of water. In summer, keep the water full at all times. In winter, wait for the water tray or saucer to dry out and then refill. Disa prefers cool roots in high temperatures; keeping the trays well watered in summer helps with this. Disa appreciate high humidity of 60% or more. Disa like good airflow, so as much as they like humidity, we do not recommend growing in a terrarium for these plants.
Temperature: 30-80F. These plants prefer to be kept no higher than 70 degrees but can tolerate a brief heat wave up to 100 or even a light frost if protected. If temperatures are over 70, keep the roots cool and the plant out of full sun. As long as the heat does not sustain through the night, you plant should tolerate this brief heat, with its roots cool. You can pour cool, refrigerated water into the tray or set up a flow table to keep cool. While we do not recommend exposing them to a frost, they can die from it, if day time temps heat up over 40 degrees, they can tolerate it (but it is still risky so we advice not exposing Disa to anything below 30). Disa need a night time drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees.
Dormancy: None needed or required. In winter your plant may slow its growth or grow shorter leaves, this is normal.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves of your plant with a mister bottle.
Soil & Repotting: Disa do best in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. Or just New Zealand sphagnum moss. You can order our Nepenthes soil to use for your Disa. Disa should be repotted frequently, every year. The best time to repot is after flowering. After your plant flowers it will die back and when you see new shoots growing, carefully pull apart the tubers and pot them up. The roots can be quite brittle so be gentle when repotting. You can use a wide range of pots including mesh orchid pots as long as you keep well watered as these pots dry out faster. Larger Disa prefer tall pots.
More Information: For more information, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! (Daniela calls them little hippos because their bulbous growth looks like a herd of little hippo faces).
Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal!
Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed
The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! This species looks like a little sea creature! Lecanopteris lomaroides is from Modayag and are especially nice because the rhizome turns a beautiful bruise blue black in bright light!
Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal!
Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed
Lilium iridollae is a beautiful companion plant to bog growing carnivorous plants. Native to the southeastern coastal plain, it grows in the same conditions as Sarracenia. In some regions it is known as the “Panhandle Lily” or the “Pot of Gold Lily”.
These lilies can grow to six feet tall with a single, large flower that hangs down! The flowers can range in color from orange to pale yellow. They are truly stunning when they bloom and are an amazing addition to any bog garden. Extremely rare in cultivation. And limited in quantity.
These plants die back in winter with no visible growth until late spring or summer. If you order in winter or early spring, expect to see NO GROWTH yet.
Care Instructions
Sun: Full sun outdoors
Water: Always sitting in at least two inches of distilled or purified water
Temperature: 20 degrees - 80 degrees, can even take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods
Dormancy: None needed.
Stylidium debile, also known as the Fragile Trigger plant, is a much-debated Australian plant. During its flowering season, the stems of its flowers become sticky traps for insects, making it carnivorous. Because this plant is not carnivorous year-round, it is often considered proto-carnivorous. Regardless of its classification, it’s a really cool and fun plant!
Trigger plants are best known for their unusual method of smacking insects with their pollen. In the center of the flower is a touch-sensitive trigger that hits the insect and dusts it with pollen, or once the stigma is developed, it picks up pollen from the insect.
The rosettes we are shipping will be 1-2” across and flowering size!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Small rosettes of elongated, paddle-shaped leaves grow to a few inches across and bloom readily. Tall scapes have multiple small, pink flowers. These plants quickly spread throughout any pot they are grown in and divide rapidly. They die back in winter, reemerge in spring, and bloom almost year-round when grown indoors or in lots of sun.
Sun: Full sun outdoors or indoors on a sunny windowsill or in a terrarium under grow lights. If grown under grow lights, have lights on a 10-12 hour day length and hang 6-10 above plants depending on the strength of light. With proper light, they will bloom almost non-stop. If your plant won’t produce flowers, it may need more light.
Water & Humidity: Always sitting in at least two inches of distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater, they prefer deep saucers of water or undrained containers to recreate their very waterlogged conditions. Do not dry out. Keep watered in winter. While they appreciate a little added humidity, they do not need it.
Temperature: 15 degrees - 100 degrees; needs protection from colder winters and always keeps very wet when hot.
Dormancy: None but will die back if kept outdoors for winter and resume vigorous growth in spring.
Soil: The plant comes potted in a custom mix of four parts: peat moss to one part perlite. Repot every 1-3 years, and you’ll find lots of new plants to divide out or to pot into a big pot together. Preferably, use plastic, glazed ceramic, or glazed terracotta pots.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
