• Plastic or glazed ceramic pots are best for most carnivorous plants.  Unglazed terracotta pots are very porous and dry the soil out quickly.  Also, they may leach salts out into the soil with time.  We prefer small plastic pots with holes in the bottom, so that the tray method may be used.  You can use undrained containers but be prepared to water frequently.
• One exception to the above rule is the Dewy Pine (Drosophyllum) which prefers to be in a large terracotta pot.
• Mexican Pinguicula can be grown in a much more diverse range of planters.  These plants have a very shallow root system.  Because of this, they can be grown in small, shallow planters with no drainage.  We find they can be potted into teacups, vintage pottery, seashells, on lava rocks and other novelty planters.  Check out our YouTube channel for lots of ideas on the diverse ways you can use Butterworts in your planters!
• HOW TO BUILD A PINGUICULA ROCK DISPLAY: CLICK HERE

• Carnivorous plants evolved to catch insects to get the fertilizers that are lacking in their soil.  There are virtually no nutrients available in their planting media, so carnivores need to eat.  Healthy plants that have access to lots of prey don't necessarily need any fertilizing, although it would still be beneficial.  
• Be cautious with fertilizers that have not been carefully tested on carnivorous plants.  Most fertilizers are too strong for these plants and may severely damage or even kill them.  Always use fertilizers that have been recommended by experts who have tested them first.
• We have found MaxSea fertilizer to be the most gentle and effective. We lightly sprinkle most of our carnivores once a month with a solution of 1/4 teaspoon MaxSea diluted in one gallon of water.  MaxSea may be used from seedlings to mature specimens.  Apply to the leaves only, do not pour through the soil. Pour into the pitchers of all pitcher plants.  You can use MaxSea on Nepenthes, Drosera, Venus Flytraps, Sarracenia, Darlintonia, Heliamphora, Cephalotus and Drosophyllum.Use caution and lower concentrations when fertilizing more finicky South African sundews like Drosera regia, glabripes and slackii. 
• Add a pellet of Osmocote slow release fertilizer (14-14-14) to pitcher plants; Sarracenia, Cephalotus, Helimaphora and Nepenthes. Put one pellet into each pitcher. Sometimes they do lightly burn the sides of the pitchers where they come to rest inside of the pitchers but this is not harmful long term and often can be avoided if a bit of distilled water is added at the same time as the pellet.
• We use Schultz cactus fertilizer on the Pinguicula, applying to the leaves only and following the instructions on the packaging for dilution.  This can be applied twice a month.
• To feed Venus flytrap traps, use live mealworms (usually available at pet stores) or other live bugs. Use a pair of tongs or tweezers to feed the insect or worm to the trap, triggering the trigger hairs to cause the trap to close.  Live prey will stimulate the trap to close tightly, seal and emit the digestive fluids needed to break down the insect.  Feeding a dead insect or inert food, such as hamburger, is less likely to trigger the full digestive process of the plant.  The plant can be triggered to close but often the trap will reopen in a day or two, which indicates that it has not completed digestion.  It will stay closed for many days to complete the full digestion process.  The plant needs the live prey to stimulate this full process or it will reopen, thinking it has caught an inert and indigestible item.

• APHIDS: The constant sap sucking of aphids will cause the new leaves of sundews and pitcher plants to twist and contort as they grow.  You can spray your plants with "Take Down"; the active ingredients are canola oil and pyrethrin, which comes from a daisy relative.  It is organic and has almost no odor.  Make sure and cover every surface of the infected plant.  You will need to treat the plant at least twice, 1 week apart.  Continue until they're all gone.  Avoid contact with skin and eyes.  Organic does not mean non-toxic.

• MEALYBUGS: This can look like cotton fluff in the growth points of your Sarracenia or at the base of Nepenthes leaves. First, clean off any old growth; trim leaves back, remove old scales of leaves at the rhizome of Sarracenia and cut back any dying or dead growth.  Next, take a hose on the jet or flat setting and spray your plant off, being very careful of the growth points and leaves as you do not want to damage your plant.  You can use a cotton swab dipped in medicinal alcohol (the kind used in first aid kits) to swab in between leaves on the rhizome, or any other nooks and crannies where you see evidence of mealy bug.  Lastly, we recommend spraying your plants with Sevin. Make sure and cover every surface of the infected plant.  You will need to treat the plant at least twice, 1 week apart.  Continue until they're all gone.  Avoid contact with skin and eyes. 

• THRIPS: Sarracenia are a favorite of thrips; their chewing causes silvery patches on the pitchers.  We recommend treating with Monterey Garden Spray, the main ingredient is Spinosad. Make sure and cover every surface of the infected plant.  You will need to treat the plant at least twice, 1 week apart.  Continue until they're all gone.  Avoid contact with skin and eyes.

• SCALE: Scale look like little waxy scabs that encrust the leaves and stems. Scale may be wiped away with rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip or cotton pad.  Badly infested leaves may be cut away and thrown in the trash.  Then you will have to spray.  We recommend "Take Down"; the active ingredients are canola oil and pyrethrin, which comes from a daisy relative.  It is organic and has almost no odor.  Make sure and cover every surface of the infected plant.  You will need to treat the plant at least twice, 1 week apart.  Continue until they're all gone.  Avoid contact with skin and eyes.  Organic does not mean non-toxic.
• FUNGUS GNATS: The adult fungus gnats will lay their eggs in the soil of many houseplants, including carnivorous plants.  Often, Pinguicula and Drosera will catch many of these adults and help reduce the population.  The larvae in the soil can be detrimental to the plants though as they feed on roots.  Mosquito BTs are a safe and effective way to treat these.  Place a handful of Mosquito BTs in a gallon of distilled water, soak overnight and then pour the water through the soil of your infested plant thoroughly.  Repeat application in 7 days.  This will kill the larvae in the soil.

• DEER: While deer may take an exploratory nibble of a Sarracenia they rarely come back for seconds and overall leave the plants alone long term.

• BIRDS: Birds can be destructive of bog containers because they occasionally poke their beaks into the wet soil, looking for food like worms.  If they are a continuous problem you can insert bamboo skewers, pointy side up, into the soil to discourage birds from landing in the pots.

• RACCOONS: Because the outdoor plants like to sit in water, raccoons can be attracted to the pots.  Sometimes they will play in the water or dig out the plants.  This is fairly rare and you can try sprinkling cayenne pepper on the soil to discourage them.  You can also try the skewer method and bury skewers, pointy side out into the soil to stop them from getting into the soil.
• BOTRYTIS: This is a fungus that often looks like fuzzy bread mold.  This fungus loves fresh new growth in particular.  This can be combatted with increased light, better airflow and reducing overhead watering.  We recommend Medallion Fungicide.  Follow the directions on the package for application.
• POWDERY MILDEW: This is similar looking to botrytis but is not as fluffy and is very common on Sarracenia.  Sulphur is the best treatment for powdery, follow directions on the packaging for application.
• SOOTY MOLD: Commonly seen on Sarracenia this looks just like it sounds; like a black mold all over the pitchers.  We also refer to this as nectar mold as it is feeding on the sugary nectar of the pitcher plants.  (We see this on Nepenthes as well).  This is a totally harmless mold, very common and even seen in the wild on the plants.  It can often be wiped off of the pitchers with a damp paper towel and requires no treatment. 
• ALGAE SLIME: Algae can grow in the trays of plants over time and is nonharmful but cleaning your trays once a month will inhibit this growth.  On the surface of the soil of bog plants, algae slime will sometimes grow.  This looks like a tiny green jell-o mold.  This is non-harmful and no treatment is needed.  If it is unsightly, scrape it off the surface of the soil with a spoon.

• PETS: Cats sometimes like to like the dew off of sundews or take a nibble.  Dogs can knock over pots and very rarely eat a plant or two.  Luckily the plants are non-toxic to our beloved pets.  Depending on the persistence of your cat you may need to relocate your plants to an inaccessbile shelf or into a terrarium indoors.  Dogs are easily dissuaded when pots are relocated to high spots.

We offer both individual ingredients and mixes for all your carnivorous plant needs which can be found in our Growing Supplies section.  Each species requires it's own specific blend but most carnivorous plants should be grown in some mix of peat moss, perlite, long fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss or sand.  Never pot them into regular garden or potting soil; this will kill them.

BASIC INGREDIENTS

• PEAT MOSS: We use professional grade peat moss only.  Be careful and do not use Miracle-Gro brand peat and perlite as it has been fortified with fertilizers and will harm carnivorous plants!

• SAND: We recommend using washed horticultural from a local garden store.  If you can't find horticultural sand you can use the sand used for children's sand boxes, called play sand.

• NEW ZEALAND LONG-FIBERED SPHAGNUM MOSS: We use New Zealand long-fibered Sphagnum moss as a base for many of our other plants such as Nepenthes and Heliamphora.  Many retail garden centers and nurseries unwittingly sell Oregon green moss as Sphagnum moss.  They are not the same, in fact Oregon green moss will kill our plants if it is used.

• DOMESTIC LONG-FIBERED SPHAGNUM MOSS: We use domestic long-fibered sphagnum to line the bottoms of our pots to prevent the peat and perlite from seeping out.

• PERLITE: This can be found in many hardware stores and specialty nurseries.  Be careful to wet it before use as breathing in perlite dust can be harmful.

• PUMICE: This can be found in many hardware stores and specialty nurseries

• LAVA ROCK: We use a small grade of lava rock, about the size of a pea.  If you cannot find that you can often find large lava rock in a hardware or garden center with other decorative rocks.  This can be easily broken up with a hammer.  Be sure to rinse you lava rock before use.

• ORCHID BARK: We prefer to use a small, fine particle high quality orchid bark of 3/8-1/4 inch size.

SOIL MIXES

You can buy our pre-made, small batch, custom soil mixes online but if you would like to source ingredients locally you can make your own mixes at home.

• PEAT AND PERLITE MIX: Four parts peat moss to one part perlite.  Be sure to wet the perlite before use as you do not want to inhale the dust from perlite.  This mix is suitable for Sarracenia, most Drosera, Dionaea and Temperate Pinguicula.

• NEPENTHES MIX: Nepenthes enjoy loose, open soil that remains wet to moist but allows drainage of excess water.  They are tolerant of a wide variety of soil mixes.  We use a mix of three parts New Zealand long-fibered Sphagnum moss to one part of the coarse materials, perlite, orchid bark and pumice.  You can also use tree-fern fiber, lava rock or charcoal for your coarse materials.

• DROSOPHYLLUM MIX: We use a mix composed of equal parts perlite, pumice, peat moss, and sand. 

• PINGUICULA MIX: For Temperate species: Use Peat and Perlite mix. Warm temperate varieties do well in a soil of one part peat to one part sand.  Mexican and tropical species enjoy a more open mix of equal parts sand, perlite, pumice and peat.

• CEPHALOTUS AND BYBLIS MIX: These will thrive in a mix if two parts sand and/or perlite to one part peat. 

• DARLINGTONIA MIX: The best mix for Cobra plants is three parts New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum moss to one part pumice or lava rock.  Another good mix is two parts lava rock, and or pumice to one part peat.  Basically the mix should be airy and the rock ingredients will help cool the roots.  Live sphagnum makes an ideal media as well.

• HELIAMPHORA MIX: Use a mix comprised of mostly New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum moss with some pumice or lava rock mixed in.  The mix should be airy and the rock ingredients will help keep the mix open and cool.  They may be grown in live sphagnum also, but take care that it doesn't overwhelm the Heliamphora.

• BYBLIS MIX:  For perennial species like gigantea we prefer a mix of four parts akadama to one part sand to one part peat.

• All carnivorous plants should be grown with a pure, low mineral water.  If you do have hard water, it is best to use collected rain water, distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or de-ionized water.  
• The water vending machines at your local grocery store are a good, inexpensive source for pure water.  
• Brita and Pur water filters, however, do not remove enough dissolved salts to make much difference.  However, Zero Water pitchers will filter water enough and are an easy way to make small amounts of distilled water. 
• Total dissolved solids (TDS) are best if below 150 parts per million (PPM).  You can purchase an inexpensive TDS meter on Amazon to test your water.
• Locally; Santa Rosa city, Guerneville city, East Bay MUD, some municipal water & Sacramento area water that comes from the river may be used on carnivorous plants.  It is good to routinely check the TDS of this water source as these levels can fluctuate with the seasonal droughts.
• Most carnivorous plants love being in water!  They may be watered using the tray method.  Simply put your plants, in their pots, into a deep tray and fill it with pure water.  This is really the best and easiest way to make sure your plants don't ever dry out.  
• Exceptions are Nepenthes, Heliamphora, Cephalotus and Drosophyllum which want to be watered frequently but do not want to dry out.

SUN: Full sun, outdoors.  It is common for several of the traps to "burn" and die back when you first put it into the sun, it is just getting used to the full sun exposure and it will quickly grow new traps.  They will thrive in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct light. You can grow them indoors on a very, very sunny windowsill or in a terrarium under grow lights but they generally do best outdoors.  Sometimes the lids of Sarracenia will slightly burn, this is the sweet nectar burning a bit in the hot sun, it is totally normal and nothing to worry about.  If you live in a very hot, dry and sunny area, like Arizona, it will be best to grow them in full morning sun with protection from the afternoon sun.  

WATER: Always keep them sitting in a saucer with a few inches of distilled or purified water. Do not let them dry out.  This is especially important on the hottest days, be sure to check your water levels frequently in the summer.  Always use distilled, reverse osmosis or rain water only.

TEMPERATURE AND DORMANCY: These are warm-temperate plants meaning that they need warm summers and chilly winters.  They should be grown outdoors (year-round in areas with mild winters) if possible.  They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90 F degrees and can take a freeze or high temperature spike up to 110 F degrees for a brief period.  

If you live in an area with very cold winters, where night time temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have options for providing them with a winter dormancy.  Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo periods and cooler temperatures in the 50-60's F.  While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, long term your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.

Your can bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage where the night time temperatures will dip down into the 50-60 F.  Leave it sitting in water during this period and put it outside again when outside temperatures increase.  

Or you can mulch them in very, very well outdoors.  You will need to pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them.  Growing them in an in-ground bog will help insulate them as well.

Lastly you can remove the plants from their pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a seal-able bag and put the bag into the refrigerator.  Leave them in the refrigerator for at least six weeks or until night time temperatures in your area are consistently over 32 F, periodically checking on them to make sure they are still a bit moist and are not growing any fungus.  Pot them back up when you remove them from the fridge.

SOIL: We prefer a mix of four parts fertilizer free peat moss to one part perlite.

FEEDING AND FERTILIZER: When grown outdoors Sarracenia will catch plenty of food and do not need supplementation.  You can still supplement with a foliar fertilizer.  Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage and into the pitchers.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply.

*If you see black mold on your pitcher, don't panic! This harmless mold grows on the pitcher nectar, and it is not harmful to your plant. It exists on all Sarracenia but is more noticeable on the anthocyanin-free plants. Although some consider it unsightly, it is totally normal and occurs on both plants in the wild and in cultivation. It can be difficult to wipe off, but the more persnickety of us can try! 

If you'd like to watch a video care guide on the basics of care, check out this video on our YouTube channel! Subscribe and follow us for up to date videos and comment on the video if you have more questions!

SUN: Full to part sun.  They can be grown in terrariums under bright fluorescent light, we recommend a fixture with four T5 bulbs or LEDs. They can be grown outdoors in full to part sun in mild climates.

WATER: Use the tray method.  Cephalotus dislike long periods of being waterlogged, so it is best to allow the water in the tray to evaporate before adding more.  Plastic containers are best, but they also do well in glazed terracotta or glazed clay.  Always use drained containers; shallow un-drained containers will rot their roots. 

TEMPERATURE: Cephalotus does best with moderately warm summers and cool to chilly winters.  The plants may die in long periods of very hot weather and they enjoy cool summer nights.  They are tolerant of brief, light frost down to 25 F degrees, but may be killed in lower temperatures.  They are best grown in cool highland greenhouse or terrariums.  They can be grown outdoors year-round in mild areas.

DORMANCY: No dormancy needed.

SOIL: Cephalotus thrive in a mix if two parts sand and/or perlite to one part peat.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING:  MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month, to the leaves and pitchers of the plant. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon MaxSea into one gallon of water for application.  Osmocote slow release fertilizer pellets can also be added to pitchers.

SUN: Full to part sun.

WATER: Use the tray method for terrestrial and tropical bladderworts, keeping the soil wet.

TEMPERATURE AND DORMANCY: There are 200 plus species of Bladderworts and they grow virtually worldwide, thus they come from varied climates. Our tropical species do best in warm greenhouses and terrariums.  The terrestrial bladderworts make wonderful, miniature, flowering ground covers in the spaces around your other carnivores and can take temperature from 40-90 degrees.

SOIL: Plastic containers with drainage holes work best for terrestrial and epiphytic species.  Most terrestrials also do well in un-drained containers.  If you wish to view the bladders on terrestrials, grow them in glass containers with removable black plastic sheeting of construction paper wrapped along the outside of the glass below the soil level.

• Aquatic species: One cup of peat, well-mixed, into each gallon of water.

• Tropical species: Equal parts fine orchid bark, New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum, peat and perlite.

• Terrestrial Species: Two parts peat to one part sand or perlite.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING:  MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month on the foliage.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water before application.

HOW TO BUILD A PINGUICULA ROCK DISPLAY: CLICK HERE

SUN:  Mexican or Tropical Butterworts are great for a sunny windowsill. When grown under high intensity fluorescent grow lights many of them will blush so that the entire plant is glowing pink or red!  Warm Temperate Butterworts do well outdoors in part sun to full sun with a bit of protection from afternoon sun.

WATER: All temperate and warm temperate species should be grown permanently wet on the tray system, with frequent overhead watering.  Use chilly water for your temperate pings.  The Mexican varieties can be kept on the tray system with overhead watering while they have carnivorous foliage in summer and autumn.  When the rosettes change to their small succulents in winter, keep the soil on the dry side, dampening them only slightly and occasionally.  You can usually tell how dry a species enjoys its winter by the size of its succulent leaves.  The tighter, smaller leafed rosettes such a Pinguicula gypsicola or the bulb-like heterophylla and macrophylla require bone-dry conditions.  Species with larger winter leaves, like a few of the moranensis varieties or agnata, enjoy winters soils just slightly damp.  Cuban species should be kept wet year-round, with only slight winter drying.

TEMPERATURE:  As butterworts grow worldwide, they come from varied climates.  Temperate Pinguicula need cold winters while they are dormant to thrive.  The warm temperate species from the U.S. tolerate light frost and brief freezes. They do best outdoors in areas with mild winters.  Mexican Butterworts do well in terrariums, greenhouses and windowsills

DORMANCY:  Mexican or Tropical butterworts have a winter dormancy that is marked by a change in the leaves from their carnivorous type to a tighter, more succulent leaf.  When the Pinguicula has formed these tight, succulent leaves you can withhold water as described above for the dormancy period.  We wait for the butterworts to go dormant before we stop watering.  And when they begin growing their carnivorous leaves we begin the tray method of watering again.  Do not worry too much about providing this dormancy; if your plants do not start to grow the succulent type leaves, which look very different than their regular leaves, you do not need to withhold water.

SOIL: 

• Temperate species: Use a mix of two parts peat, one part sand, and one part perlite. 
• Warm temperate varieties do well in a soil of one part peat to one part sand.  
• Mexican and tropical species enjoy a more open mix of equal parts sand, perlite, vermiculite, and peat.  Some growers add dolomite or gypsum to this, although we have not found it necessary. But when it's handy, add an additional part of lava rock or pumice.  
• They may also be grown in a Nepenthes mix.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING: Temperate species grown outdoors will catch their own food.  We use Schultz cactus fertilizer on our Mexican and Tropical Pinguicula, applying to the leaves only and following the instructions on the packaging for dilution. 

COMMON PROBLEMS: Check out our video on common problems

We have several videos on our YouTube page that cover Dewy Pine care!  Here is one all about potting up your plant after you receive it.  And here is one on care.  Be sure to subscribe to our channel for up to date content and comment on the videos if you have more questions!

SUN: Full sun is best even on the hottest and driest of days.

WATER: Use the tray method to water young plants.  For the first 6-8 months they should be kept damp at all times.  As they approach maturity, they should no longer sit in water for long periods of time.  In the spring and summer, large plants should be allowed to dry slightly before you water again.  Do not allow them to dry out so much that wilting occurs, but the soil can get surprisingly dry before this happens.  Wilting will damage roots and set the plant back.  Flowering plants should be kept a bit drier.

TEMPERATURE AND DORMANCY: These plants require no dormancy. Dewy Pines are mediterranean natives.  They can be grown easily outdoors year-round in California and the Southwest or anywhere else with hot dry summers and rainy winters.  They can take light frost and brief freezes.  They should be brought in or protected during long freezes below 25 F.  Ours plants take night time temps of 25 F without damage, as long as it warms back up during the day.

SOIL: Unlike most carnivores, Dewy Pines need to be kept a little on the dry side.  As such they require a special mix.  We use a mix composed of equal parts perlite, pumice, peat moss, coarse vermiculite, and sand. 

Plant your dewy pine into a large terracotta clay pot.  It should be at least 12" in diameter. We ship our dewy pines in 4" round peat pot nestled into a protective plastic pot.  When you receive it, remove all the packing material, including the New Zealand sphagnum moss we use to hold its loose soil in place during shipping.  Gently slide the peat pot out of the plastic pot it was shipped in, if it resists, you may cut away the plastic pot with heavy kitchen shears or pruners.  Once liberated, you may put a few slits in the sides of the peat pot.  This will help the roots find their way out, but is not necessary because the pot will quickly break down once planted.  This allows you to transplant your little dewy pine without disturbing their sensitive roots.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING:  MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month, to the leaves of the plant.  Avoid pouring through the soil.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water before application.

SUN: Full to part sun.

WATER: Use the tray method.  Keep the soil damp but not permanently waterlogged.

TEMPERATURE: The rainbow plant does best best in tropical climates, but its annual nature allows you to grow it during any span of several months of warm weather.  They are great little terrarium plants.

DORMANCY: Dry summer dormancy is not necessary in cultivation.

SOIL: Rainbow plants thrive in a mix of two parts sand and one part peat.  You can also add an additional part of perlite, lava rock or pumice.  Do not substitute the sand for perlite in this case.  Always use drained containers.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING: MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month, to the leaves and pitchers of the plant.  Avoid pouring through the soil. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon in one gallon of water.

SUN: Heliamphora like bright light.  They may be grown with less light, but they will remain much greener.  In a terrarium, high powered fluorescent light should be used and we recommend a fixture with four T-5 bulbs.

WATER: Use the tray method, keeping the soil damp to wet year round.  Keep the soil cool by watering with cold water, (refrigerated water is quite helpful on warm summer days).

TEMPERATURE: With the exception of the lowland form of Heliamphora heterodoxa, all Heliamphora come from high plateaus called the Tepuis, in Venezuela.  It is cool and misty all year, so they require bright light, without ever heating up.  Cooler nights are ideal.  They may be grown on cool, sunny windowsills sometimes, but the best plants are grown in climate controlled greenhouses or terrariums where day temps remain in the 70's F and night time temps in the 40's to 50's F.

Because of their need for temperature control we recommend specific containers.  Best in light-colored, preferably white, plastic or glazed ceramic pots.  Single plants grow well in six- to eight-inch pots.  The bigger the pot the better, as their mass will resist warming.

DORMANCY: No dormancy is required.

SOIL: Use a mix comprised of mostly New Zealand long-fibered sphagnum moss with some pumice or lava rock mixed in.  The mix should be airy and the rock ingredients will help keep the mix open and cool.  They may be grown in live sphagnum also, but take care that it doesn't overwhelm the Heliamphora.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING:  MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month, to the leaves and pitchers of the plant.  Avoid pouring through the soil.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water.

SUN: Full to part sun. Most species of sundew require at least six hours of direct light to thrive.  If your sundew is not producing dew it most likely needs more light.

WATER: Most sundews thrive on the tray method, which keeps the soil permanently wet.  A few prefer to be waterlogged. 

Winter growing species require periods of complete summer dormancy, at which time the soil has to be dried out.  As summer approaches wait for the plant to quickly go brown. Then reduce watering so that it slowly goes dry over the course of a month.  Keep in a cool, dry place during summer dormancy and sprinkle them with water once every couple of weeks.

TEMPERATURE: As sundews grow worldwide, they come from varied climates. Temperate sundews require cold winters see the dormancy instructions for Sarracenia. Warm-temperate and sub-tropical sundews do well on windowsills, in cool greenhouses, or terrariums and appreciate cool nights. Winter growing sundews from Australia and South Africa could be grown outdoors in a Mediterranean climate without frost or in a cool greenhouse.

SUN:  Most Nepenthes enjoy very bright, diffused light or partly sunny conditions.  Many can be grown easily on a sunny windowsill.  Terrariums with high-powered fluorescent lights are easy to set up and ideal; we recommend four T-5 lights.  Nepenthes require at least three hours of direct light if grown indoors on a windowsill.  If you notice your plant has stopped making pitchers, it is often a sign that the plant needs a bit more light.

WATER:  In greenhouses avoid the tray method of watering entirely and place the containers on benches or hang them so water can freely drain away.  In terrariums and on windowsills, place the pot in a shallow saucer and water overhead as soon as the water in the saucer evaporates.  Don't allow the pot to sit in deep water for extended periods of time as this can lead to root rot.  All pots must have drainage holes!  Misting will not provide enough moisture for this plant, be sure to pour water through the pot and soil mix frequently to make sure all the mix remains moist.

TEMPERATURE AND DORMANCY:  All Nepenthes are tropical plants, roughly divided into two categories called lowlanders and highlanders.  Nepenthes do not require any dormancy period.

• Lowlanders come from low elevations in tropical Southeast Asia.  Constant temperatures in 80's F with high humidity is ideal, although some species will grow on sunny windowsills in warm homes.  They are not tolerant of low temperatures.  They do not like a night time temperatures to drop below 70 F.

• Highlanders do best with day temps in 70 - 80's F.  They require a night time drop in temperature of about 10-20 F degrees to the 50 - 60's F in order to thrive.  Most highlanders can be easily grown on sunny windowsills.  They can be damaged or killed by temperatures below 50 F and in direct sun outdoors in high heat.

• Here is a very handy guide to Nepenthes temperature range by species: The Nepenthes Guide

SOIL: Nepenthes enjoy loose, open soil that remains wet to moist but allows drainage of excess water.  They are tolerant of a wide variety of soil mixes.  The best are about three parts New Zealand long-fibered Sphagnum moss to one part of some combination of coarse materials, such as perlite, orchid bark, pumice, tree-fern fiber, lava rock or charcoal.

FERTILIZER/FEEDING:  MaxSea fertilizer can also be applied, once per month, to the leaves and into the pitchers of the plant.  Avoid pouring through the soil.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon MaxSea into 1 gallon of water for use.  Osmocote 16-16-16 fertilizer pellets are also a wonderful addition to your fertilizer routine.  Put one pellet into each new pitcher as it opens. 

SUN: Full sun.  It is common for several of the traps to "burn" and die back when you first put it into the sun, it is just getting used to the full sun exposure and it will quickly grow new traps.  They will thrive in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct light. You can grow them indoors on a very, very sunny windowsill or in a terrarium under grow lights but they generally do best outdoors.  Also, if you grow them indoors be sure to provide them with a winter dormancy.

WATER: Always keep them sitting in a saucer with a few inches of distilled or purified water, they do not want to dry out but try not to flood the top of the traps with water as they do not appreciate this. Never let them dry out.  Always use distilled, reverse osmosis or rain water only.  These plants are especially sensitive to their water quality and it is very important to give them mineral and salt free water.

TEMPERATURE AND DORMANCY: These are warm-temperate plants meaning that they need warm summers and chilly winters.  They should be grown outdoors year-round in areas with mild winters.  They thrive in temperatures ranging from 20 degrees - 90 F degrees and can take a freeze or high temperature spike up to 100 F degrees for a brief period.  

If you live in an area with very cold winters, where night time temperatures drop below 20 degrees for sustained periods, you have three options for providing them with a winter dormancy.  Dormancy is triggered by a combination of exposure to shorter photo periods and cooler temperatures in the 50-60's F.  While you can skip a dormancy period once or twice, long term your plant will begin to do poorly and will eventually die if you skip this crucial period.

Your first option is to bring your plant indoors to a sunny windowsill in an unheated room or garage where the night time temperatures will dip down into the 50-60 F.  Leave it sitting in water during this period and put it outside again when outside temperatures increase.  

The second option is to mulch them in very, very well outdoors.  You will need to pack at least four inches of mulch on top of the plants and all around the sides to prevent winds from chilling them.  

The third option is to remove the plants from their pots, gently clean the roots of soil, wrap the roots in a bit of damp long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, place the plants in a seal-able bag and put the bag into the refrigerator.  Leave them in the refrigerator from October to February, periodically checking on them to make sure they are still a bit moist and are not growing any fungus.  Pot them back up in February. 

SOIL: We prefer a mix of four parts fertilizer free peat moss to one part perlite.

FEEDING AND FERTILIZER: When grown outdoors Venus flytraps will catch plenty of food and do not need supplementation.  You can still supplement with a foliar fertilizer.  Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only.  Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply.  If you would like to feed the traps of your flytrap it is recommended that you use live prey as the traps usually require continued movement from their food to stimulate the full absorption process.  They will often open too soon if they are fed inert foods and will not absorb nutrients.  We recommend live meal worms available from any pet store.

For even more info: Venus Flytrap Care (californiacarnivores.com)