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Drosera paradoxa is a woolly sundew from the petiolaris complex of sundews native to Northern and Western Australia. These fantastical plants grow in a region that is almost always warm, even in winter, and prefer tropical conditions. Drosera paradoxa has a Dr. Seussian-like quality with its whirl of thin stems and tiny, perfectly round, dew-covered leaves. These charming plants are one of the easier to grow in the woolly sundew category and will benefit from warm conditions and high humidity. 

The plants we are shipping have rosettes 1-2” across.

Please note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: This plant grows in a rosette of leaves, slowly growing taller along its stem. As the older leaves die back, they turn brown and form a skirt of older leaves under the new leaves. The stem can be brown as well. Mature rosettes can be 3” across. New leaves grow from the crown of the plant. The roots can be brown to black. The flowers are not self-fertile and you will need more than one plant to pollinate and produce seeds.

Sun: These plants are best grown under grow lights, indoors. The lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length 6-10” above the plants, depending on the strength of your lights. If your plant does not have dew, it may need more light. If you live in a similarly tropical climate to Northern Australia, you may be able to grow them outside but in most areas, indoors, under lights is recommended. 

Water & Humidity: Always keep the pot sitting in at least two inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants will do best with a humidity of 60% or more. 

Temperature & Dormancy: 65 degrees—90 degrees, with high humidity. This species can have a dormancy period but does not need it. Your plant may naturally go into dormancy, reduce watering if dormant. This is a tropical plant and can not tolerate cold temperatures. Never expose it to anything below 60 degrees.

Soil & Repotting: We prefer a mix of 50/50 fertilizer-free peat moss to sand. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time, but they appreciate tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. 

Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle or a watering can.

More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.

This is another excellent tropical sundew for terrariums or windowsills!  It forms small rosettes of spoon-shaped leaves with red tentacles, one to two inches across.

The plants we are shipping have rosettes 1-2” across.

Please note: shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew, if after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: This plant grows in a rosette of leaves. As the older leaves die back, they turn brown, and the stem can be brown as well. Mature rosettes can be 2” across. New leaves grow from the crown of the plant. The roots can be brown to black and thick. These plants can regrow from the roots if they die back.

Sun: Full sun indoors, in a terrarium, or outdoors if you live in a nearly frost-free climate. If grown under grow lights, the lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length 6-10” above the plants, depending on the strength of your lights. If your plant does not have dew, it may need more light. 

Water & Humidity: Always keep the pot sitting in at least two inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants will do best with a humidity of 60% or more. 

Temperature & Dormancy: 50 degrees—90 degrees, with high humidity. This species has no winter dormancy but may grow more slowly in winter if exposed to cooler temperatures and shorter photoperiods. This is a tropical plant and cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Never expose it to anything below 40 degrees.

Soil & Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time, but they appreciate tall pots. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil. 

Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will catch plenty of food when grown outdoors. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply to the leaves with a mister bottle or a watering can.

More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.

The dewy pine is a fascinating and beautiful plant. Even in the middle of the hot, dry Spanish summers, this plant can be found in full sun covered with glistening droplets of mucilage. How it manages to stay dripping with dew even without an obvious water source is a complete mystery! They form lovely, glistening, bushy plants with delightful sunny yellow flowers. Better still, they smell faintly of honey!

Drosophyllum have a reputation for being tricky to grow, and their care has some nuance. They are very different than all other carnivorous plants! They are Mediterranean plants and do best in similar climates. They do not like high humidity combined with high heat and cannot tolerate extreme cold. Dewy Pines are more challenging to grow because they do not like to sit in water and require careful watering as they do not like to be overwatered. We’ve made several videos on our YouTube channel and included detailed instructions below to help you! While they can be slightly harder to grow, they are so beautiful, aromatic, and delightful that it’s absolutely worth it! Read up on their care or watch our Ultimate Dewy Pine Care Guide!

They should be potted immediately into an 8" clay pot; watch our video guide to potting them! After removing the packaging, gently pull the peat pot out of the plastic pot it was shipped in. Plant the peat pot directly into the mix; it will break down quickly. This allows you to avoid disturbing the roots.

You can order our pre-made dewy pine mix or make your own. An ideal mix is 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part pumice, 1 part sand, maybe some lava if you have it.

Care Instructions:

Growth Habit: Dewy pines are grown as bushy annuals or short-lived perennials. In the wild, they can grow 3 feet across, but they usually grow to 12-18” tall in cultivation. Lower leaves will die back as the plant ages, and new leaves will grow in as the plant grows outward. You can trim these old leaves back, but you do not need to, and the old leaves can provide some protection for seedlings growing from seeds dropped by flowers. The leaves will often grow shorter and broader in winter. These plants readily flower, sometimes as early as a year old, and can die after flowering if not adequately dried out between watering. They will make seeds from their sunny, bright yellow flowers and do not need to be pollinated. These are short-lived perennials, but they often produce young plants from the mother plant as it dies. Older, larger plants can flump over as they become more top-heavy. The stems are usually darkly colored and woody. 

Sun: Full sun. These plants do best outdoors in most areas. If you live somewhere very hot like Arizona, you will want to grow them in the morning sun only with protection from the afternoon sun. These are hard plants to grow indoors and should be grown under lights on a 10-12 hour day length if grown indoors. Grow lights should be 6-12” above the plants, depending on the strength of the light. 

Water: Use the tray method to water young plants. For the first 6-8 months, they should be kept damp during the warmest parts of spring, summer, and fall. As they approach maturity, they should no longer sit in water for long periods. In the spring and summer, large plants should be allowed to dry slightly before you water again. Do not allow them to dry out so much that wilting occurs, but the soil can get surprisingly dry before this happens. Wilting will damage roots and set the plant back. Remove the trays and hand water during the winter and early spring, when it is both cool and the photo periods are shorter. When your plant is experiencing rain in winter, be sure to dry your plant out well between watering. Flowering plants should be kept a bit drier; when you plant flowers, they will die if kept too wet. Dewy pines do not like high humidity combined with heat and will have increased chances of rot in those conditions. 

Temperature and Dormancy: Dewy Pines are Mediterranean natives. Their ideal range is 30-100F, but they can tolerate brief freezes if not sitting in water and brief heat waves up to 115 if well watered. These plants do not need or experience a winter dormancy. They can be grown easily outdoors year-round in California and the Southwest or anywhere else with hot, dry summers and rainy winters. You will want to protect them from the afternoon sun in the hottest parts of the Southwest. They can take light frost and brief freezes. They should be brought in or protected during long freezes below 20 F.  Ours plants take night time temps of 20 F without damage, as long as it warms back up during the day, over 40 F. Dewy pines do not like high humidity combined with heat and will have increased chances of rot in those conditions, if you live somewhere BOTH very hot AND humid you may struggle to grow Dewy Pines successfully. 

Soil and Repotting: You can order our pre-made dewy pine mix or make your own. An ideal mix is 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part pumice, 1 part sand, and optionally, 1 part small-sized, rinsed lava rock. Dewy pines are susceptible to having their roots disturbed and will likely die if their large, long tap root is damaged or disturbed. Because of this, we ship seedlings at a small size when they are easiest to transplant. They are shipped in a peat pot inside a plastic pot. Remove the peat pot from the plastic pot and plant the peat pot into your 8-12” terracotta pot. Do not try to remove the plant from the peat pot. Dewy pines prefer to be potted into an oversized terracotta pot. Do not repot your plant ever. 

Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosophyllum catch small insects in their sticky mucilage. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. These plants will appreciate a foliar feed. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can.

More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.

The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! (Daniela calls them little hippos because their bulbous growth looks like a herd of little hippo faces). 

Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal! 

Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed

The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! This species looks like a little sea creature! Lecanopteris lomaroides is from Modayag and are especially nice because the rhizome turns a beautiful bruise blue black in bright light!

Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal! 

Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed

Lilium iridollae is a beautiful companion plant to bog growing carnivorous plants. Native to the southeastern coastal plain, it grows in the same conditions as Sarracenia. In some regions it is known as the “Panhandle Lily” or the “Pot of Gold Lily”.

These lilies can grow to six feet tall with a single, large flower that hangs down! The flowers can range in color from orange to pale yellow. They are truly stunning when they bloom and are an amazing addition to any bog garden. Extremely rare in cultivation. And limited in quantity. 

These plants die back in winter with no visible growth until late spring or summer. If you order in winter or early spring, expect to see NO GROWTH yet. 

Care Instructions
Sun: Full sun outdoors
Water: Always sitting in at least two inches of distilled or purified water
Temperature: 20 degrees - 80 degrees, can even take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods
Dormancy: None needed.

We have always grown companion plants in the nursery; orchids, ferns, monstera and tillandsia but no plant has been more eye catching than our variegated Monstera borsigiana albo.  People have begged us to sell these for years!  These are rooted cuttings that we will ship bare-root.  We will have very limited quantities of these show stopping plants.

Nepenthes ( densiflora x aristolochioides ) x ( robcantleyi x hamata ) is a new hybrid from the CalCarn lab! We are entirely in love with these cute little tubby pitchers! They have a charming, tapered sausage shape with upside-down, heart-shaped peristomes! The pitchers are speckled red with vivid peristomes, and we’re very excited to see them grow out!

They are from the CalCarn tissue culture lab, and there are multiple clones. 

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.

Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. 

Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. 

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. 

Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. 

Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.

Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.

More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!

Nepenthes ( x ‘Peter D’Amato’ ) x edwardsiana “Giant” is a brand new CalCarn cross! This is a dream cross, combining the fantastic, iconic toothiness of Nepenthes edwardsiana with the huge, open-mouthed, beautifully mottled pitchers of ‘Peter D’Amato’! Nepenthes x ‘Peter D’Amato’ is a carefully selected clone of ventricosa x lowii, which adds the ease of growth of ventricosa to this hybrid!

The seedlings already have beautiful little red pitchers, and we expect them to be weird and wonderful, especially with the two infamous parents used in this cross! 

These are all seed grown individuals and this is not in TC so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering. We have very few of these.

The first three photos are of the parents in the cross.

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.

Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. 

Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. 

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. 

Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. 

Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.

Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.

More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!

We love Nepenthes aristolochioides x burkei! This charming hybrid keeps the best of Nepenthes aristolochioides with its compact, tubby, birdhouse-shaped pitchers. Adding the beauty and vigor of Nepenthes burkei gives this hybrid a little more size and easy growth! 

These are from the best selected clone in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3832. 

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.

Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. 

Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. 

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. 

Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. 

Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.

Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.

More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!

Nepenthes diatas x edwardsiana is a new hybrid from master hybridized Jeff Shafer, you can follow him on instagram @nepenthesgod for more information on his breeding program. We’re so excited to collaborate with Jeff to be able to offer his impeccably curated hybrids.

Nepenthes diatas is a beautiful species with dark red pitchers and a shiny red lip.  The interior of the pitchers is waxy and white, which provides excellent contrast. Nepenthes edwardsiana practically needs no description as it’s so famous for its beautiful and vicious deeply ridged pitchers! Both plants are known for their toothy peristomes so this should be a fun cross. We’re already seeing amazing coloration on these small pitchers and we expect deep red color and fantastic peristomes!

These are all seed grown individuals and this is not in TC so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering.

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.

Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. 

Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. 

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. 

Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. 

Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.

Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.

More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!

This cross of Nepenthes maxima x ramispina has turned out beautifully! It is a prolific producer of pitchers that are much larger and more spectacular in every way than those on either parent species! This particular clone was selected over many years of trials from amongst a vast number of candidate clones for its vigor and intensely dark coloration.

These are from the best-selected clone in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3740.

Nepenthes murudensis x edwardsiana “Giant” is a  brand new CalCarn cross! The color on the young pitchers is already very promising; deep red with striped peristomes and we expect these plants to have exceptional red color and the iconic hooked peristome of edwardsiana! 

These are all seed grown individuals and this is not in TC so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering.

Care Instructions

Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.

Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light. 

Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation. 

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures. 

Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten. 

Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.

Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.

More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!

Wow! This exciting hybrid is everything we wanted! Huge, bright-red pitchers are the best of both parents! Nepenthes rajah of course is the slow and difficult to grow king of all Nepenthes. Nepenthes mira looks a lot like a little rajah, so it is complimentary to rajah but is a lot easier to grow.  We find these to be much easier to grow than either of their parents!

These are from assorted clones in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3518.

Nepenthes ovata has wide, red, flared peristomes with green pitchers.  And Nepenthes singalana is known for showy peristomes and slender pitchers. This hybrid has a lot of variation, but all of them have showy peristomes and large, charmingly tubby pitchers topped with large lids! This is a fun and easy-to-grow hybrid that should grow large pitchers quickly! 

These are from assorted clones in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3882.

Care Instructions

Nepenthes singalana x tenuis is the perfect combination of plants to heighten the adorableness of tenuis! We all love this hybrid because of its charming ice cream cone-shaped pitchers and delicate peristomes topped with huge lids! An excellent plant for the beginner!

These are from assorted clones in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3988.

Nepenthes spathulata x dubia is a really fun cross!  Both of these parents look very, very different from each other, and we already see a lot of interesting variation. The pitchers vary from bright orange to chocolate brown, and all have pleasantly plump, tapered pitchers with wide, shiny peristomes!

These plants are from assorted clones in tissue culture from Borneo Exotics, BE-3751.

Care Instructions