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Drosera rosulata is one of Peter and Damon’s favorite rosetted tuberous sundew with its olive-colored leaves and red tentacles! It forms neat rosettes of obviate leaves around two inches across. It is particularly charming when the single, short-stemmed flowers are open in the rosette's center. And if that wasn’t enough to add to its beauty, the leaves have a pronounced reddish hue!
THESE PLANTS GO DORMANT IN SPRING, as early as March. If ordered in March, your plant may arrive with most or all of its leaves dying back.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Tuberous Drosera are very unusual plants. Only growing for the cold months of the year, they grow like a magic trick suddenly and quickly in winter once their dry pots are put in water! They grow from tubers in the soil that can be very, very tiny, depending on the species and age of the plant. When watered, the tuber will produce a vertical stolon, making its way to the soil surface. This stolon is fragile, and we do not recommend repotting it when the plant is actively growing as it is very easy to break. Through the winter the leaves will grow in rapidly and the plant will catch insects and flower. Then, as the heat of late spring and summer approaches, the plants brown and die back. In active growth, it is normal for the leaves to die back, turn brown, and grow new leaves. Nearly all tuberous drosera are self-sterile, and you will need two genetically different clones to make viable seed. This species produces low rosettes of obovate leaves up to 2” across and white flowers.
Sun: Tuberous Drosera grow over the wet winter of their Mediterranean climate. Then, in summer, they die back to the ground and must be dried out until growth resumes in Fall. During their growing season, starting in September, they will want full winter sun. They can be grown outdoors in frost-free Mediterranean climates, cool subtropical climates, cool greenhouses, indoors on sunny windowsills, or under grow lights. If grown under grow lights, set them on a winter day length of 7-8 hours; growing them on a longer day length may trigger dormancy. Place your lights 6-12” above the plants, depending on the strength of your lights. These plants will go dormant as warm temperatures and longer photo periods begin in spring, usually around March or April. They need to be dried out and stored in a cool, dry place until they grow again; during this time, they do not need to be in the sun. We keep ours tucked under our plant benching for summer. Never leave pots of dried, dormant plants in direct sunlight, as the heat will desiccate the tubers.
Water: Place your pots in water in September and keep the plants well-watered through their growing season. Only use distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water as they are very sensitive to dissolved minerals and salts in their water. As spring wears on, day lengths increase, and temperatures rise, your plant will go dormant. Watch for signs of dormancy; your plant may turn yellow and then quickly go brown during this time. When you see these signs, or at the end of May, reduce watering so that it slowly goes dry over the course of a month. Keep them in a cool, dry place during summer dormancy, and sprinkle them with water once every couple of weeks throughout the summer to mimic seasonal rains. Do not water heavily, but just wet the soil like a summer rain storm would (as Peter always told us every summer).
Temperature: When actively growing, avoid exposing them to temperatures over 80 degrees, as this may cause them to go into dormancy. Many species experience light frost in the wild for short periods but must be protected from freezing. They will be most happy in temperatures of 60-75 during the day and 40-50 at night. When dormant, it is best to store them in a cool, dry place where the pots will not receive full sun and temperatures are below 80.
Dormancy: Dormancy is variable but often starts in March or April and ends in September or October. Some species will grow first thing in September, as soon as their pots are set in water; tubaestylis and rosulata, for example. Other species will come up much later, as late as December, but should still be watered starting in September; cistiflora, for instance. We prefer to leave our tubers potted for dormancy, having greater results over many years and thousands of plants, with this method. However, some growers prefer to remove the dormant tubers from their pots, every summer storing them in dry airtight plastic bags.
Soil and Repotting: DO NOT REPOT YOUR TUBEROUS DROSERA WHEN YOU RECEIVE IT FROM US! We have carefully potted up your tuber, which is actively growing when shipped to you. Repotting at this time will shock it up and possibly send it into dormancy; it is also easy to break the new growth. We highly recommend you do not attempt to repot at all until you watch our YouTube channel to see how small these tubers are. Tubers are sometimes as small as a BB, orange, white, or brown. These tiny tubers are very hard to find in their sandy mix, and many people miss them and throw them away accidentally. It’s incredible how such a fantastic plant can come from such a tiny tuber!
When ready to repot, which should be done every 3 years, use a very sandy mix. These plants can produce new tubers over the years, so look for extras when repotting. We generally prefer a blend of one part peat moss: two parts horticultural sand. They do well in tall, plastic pots. Soil can develop a swampy smell, especially after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will benefit from fertilizing with a foliar fertilizer and feeding the leaves. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply it to the leaves with a mister bottle or watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website FAQ or our YouTube channel.
Drosera rupicola is one of the easiest and most rewarding of the tuberous sundews. It forms little sundew bushes about 6 inches across. The leaves are cupped like mouse ears. Mature plants produce an amazing amount of white fragrant flowers! Walking through the nursery in the cold winter and smelling these sweet flowers always makes us think of Spring.
This species comes in a diversity of color forms. Over the years we’ve sold a beautiful golden-green form and a sought after dark red x bronze form but we’ve never offered this stunning orangey rupicola before!
THESE PLANTS GO DORMANT IN SPRING, as early as March. If ordered in March, your plant may arrive with most or all of its leaves dying back.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Tuberous Drosera are very unusual plants. Only growing for the cold months of the year, they grow like a magic trick suddenly and quickly in winter once their dry pots are put in water! They grow from tubers in the soil that can be very, very tiny, depending on the species and age of the plant. When watered, the tuber will produce a vertical stolon, making its way to the soil surface. This stolon is fragile, and we do not recommend repotting it when the plant is actively growing as it is very easy to break. Through the winter the leaves will grow in rapidly and the plant will catch insects and flower. Then, as the heat of late spring and summer approaches, the plants brown and die back. In active growth, it is normal for the leaves to die back, turn brown, and grow new leaves. Nearly all tuberous drosera are self-sterile, and you will need two genetically different clones to make viable seed. This species produces thick stems up to six inches tall, with cupped leaves.
Sun: Tuberous Drosera grow over the wet winter of their Mediterranean climate. Then, in summer, they die back to the ground and must be dried out until growth resumes in Fall. During their growing season, starting in September, they will want full winter sun. They can be grown outdoors in frost-free Mediterranean climates, cool subtropical climates, cool greenhouses, indoors on sunny windowsills, or under grow lights. If grown under grow lights, set them on a winter day length of 7-8 hours; growing them on a longer day length may trigger dormancy. Place your lights 6-12” above the plants, depending on the strength of your lights. These plants will go dormant as warm temperatures and longer photo periods begin in spring, usually around March or April. They need to be dried out and stored in a cool, dry place until they grow again; during this time, they do not need to be in the sun. We keep ours tucked under our plant benching for summer. Never leave pots of dried, dormant plants in direct sunlight, as the heat will desiccate the tubers.
Water: Place your pots in water in September and keep the plants well-watered through their growing season. Only use distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water as they are very sensitive to dissolved minerals and salts in their water. As spring wears on, day lengths increase, and temperatures rise, your plant will go dormant. Watch for signs of dormancy; your plant may turn yellow and then quickly go brown during this time. When you see these signs, or at the end of May, reduce watering so that it slowly goes dry over the course of a month. Keep them in a cool, dry place during summer dormancy, and sprinkle them with water once every couple of weeks throughout the summer to mimic seasonal rains. Do not water heavily, but just wet the soil like a summer rain storm would (as Peter always told us every summer).
Temperature: When actively growing, avoid exposing them to temperatures over 80 degrees, as this may cause them to go into dormancy. Many species experience light frost in the wild for short periods but must be protected from freezing. They will be most happy in temperatures of 60-75 during the day and 40-50 at night. When dormant, it is best to store them in a cool, dry place where the pots will not receive full sun and temperatures are below 80.
Dormancy: Dormancy is variable but often starts in March or April and ends in September or October. Some species will grow first thing in September, as soon as their pots are set in water; tubaestylis and rosulata, for example. Other species will come up much later, as late as December, but should still be watered starting in September; cistiflora, for instance. We prefer to leave our tubers potted for dormancy, having greater results over many years and thousands of plants, with this method. However, some growers prefer to remove the dormant tubers from their pots, every summer storing them in dry airtight plastic bags.
Soil and Repotting: DO NOT REPOT YOUR TUBEROUS DROSERA WHEN YOU RECEIVE IT FROM US! We have carefully potted up your tuber, which is actively growing when shipped to you. Repotting at this time will shock it up and possibly send it into dormancy; it is also easy to break the new growth. We highly recommend you do not attempt to repot at all until you watch our YouTube channel to see how small these tubers are. Tubers are sometimes as small as a BB, orange, white, or brown. These tiny tubers are very hard to find in their sandy mix, and many people miss them and throw them away accidentally. It’s incredible how such a fantastic plant can come from such a tiny tuber!
When ready to repot, which should be done every 3 years, use a very sandy mix. These plants can produce new tubers over the years, so look for extras when repotting. We generally prefer a blend of one part peat moss: two parts horticultural sand. They do well in tall, plastic pots. Soil can develop a swampy smell, especially after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera will benefit from fertilizing with a foliar fertilizer and feeding the leaves. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water and then apply it to the leaves with a mister bottle or watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, dividing, and more, check out our website FAQ or our YouTube channel.
We are so happy to be offering this killer cape sundew! It truly is a giant amongst wide leaf plants! ‘Hercules’ is stunning but is a compact plant, whereas “Lotus Eater” has large size and super wide leaves! This plant was created by Frank Obregon, a great friend to the nursery and wonderful carnivorous plant grower (be sure to checkout his ICPS article on growing Roridula!)
The plants we are shipping are about 2-4” tall.
Please note: Shipping can be hard on the sticky dew covering the leaves, so your plant may arrive without dew. It can take a few weeks for the plant to produce more dew. If after four weeks it has not produced dew, you may need to increase light.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast.
Sun: Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun. In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate.
Water: Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time.
Temperature and Dormancy: Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they will catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application!
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
This lovely cultivar is probably one of the most beautiful of all the sundews. When grown well it looks like a compact, wide leaf Cape Sundew on steroids! The parentage is somewhat contested but is thought to be a cross between Drosera capensis 'alba' and Drosera aliciae. We are really excited to have these plants!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Drosera capensis are small, bushy plants that grow about 6” tall at maturity, although some forms can be slightly larger. Capensis spread readily by dropping seeds from their abundant flowers in their pots, which do not need to be pollinated. As they grow, their leaves die back, starting from the base of the plant and moving up. The leaves die back and can be cut off. The stem will thicken and be black or brown. Sometimes larger, older plants will flop over and grow sideways as they age, growing taller and taller with new leaves emerging from the top of the plant. Capensis can regrow from the roots quite readily, so if your crown dies, keep nurturing it, and you should see new growth. These plants have a high leaf turnover, meaning their leaves die back frequently, but new leaves grow just as fast.
Sun: Full sun. Grow indoors on a sunny windowsill, in a terrarium under lights, or outdoors. If grown indoors, Drosera will require full sun to produce their sticky dew, so be sure to place them in a window where they will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. If grown under lights, keep your grow lights on a 10 to 12-hour day length and hang your grow lights 6 to 10 inches above the plants on the quality of your lights. Grown outdoors, these plants will enjoy a great deal of sun. If you live somewhere extremely hot, for example, Arizona, you will want to protect them from the Full intensity of the afternoon sunlight. You can either grow them in morning sun only, or use shade cloth to help protect them in these very hot areas. These plants may be more colorful and smaller when grown outdoors because the light is more intense. You can expect a few leaves to burn back when you first place your plant outdoors in the sun, and if you receive your plant in the summer, it is a good idea to slowly acclimate it to the sunlight over a day or two. Even in less sunny seasons, areas, or with acclimation, you can still expect to see some burned leaves when first placed outside. This is normal, and new leaves will grow that are more adjusted to the sun. In winter, when grown in sunlight, indoors or outdoors, it is very normal for color to fade from red varieties due to less sun. IF YOUR SUNDEW IS NOT PRODUCING DEW, IT MOST LIKELY NEEDS MORE SUNLIGHT. It can also take a few weeks after shipping for dew to generate.
Water: Always sitting in a few inches of distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis water. These plants always prefer to have their roots wet and can have their pots sitting in a deep saucer of water all the time.
Temperature and Dormancy: Drosera capensis tolerate a wide range of temperatures but will be happiest in 40 - 80 degrees. They can take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods and can grow back from the roots after a freeze if the daytime temperatures increase above 40. Drosera capensis do not need a dormancy but will die back or slow growth in winter depending on the conditions they are exposed to. If exposed to freezes, they will die back. And many will slow their growth or grow smaller in winter. Drosera capensis does need a nighttime drop in temperatures of 10-20 degrees; if you’d like to grow this in a tropical zone, we recommend the ‘Alba’ cultivar as it can tolerate no nighttime drop in temperature.
Soil and Repotting: We prefer a mix of four-part fertilizer-free peat moss to one-part perlite. You can add our pre-made mix to your order here. You do not need to repot your plant when you receive it from us for at least a year, and we recommend against it during the spring-summer months. Repot Drosera every 1-3 years. Avoid placing in excessively large pots; size up only a few inches at a time. Soil can also develop a swampy smell, especially right after shipping, when the plant is wrapped in plastic and sealed. This is normal; these plants grow naturally in bogs and swampy conditions, and peat moss can develop a bit of an anaerobic smell, but this does not indicate a problem with the soil.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosera catch small insects like fungus gnats and fruit flies in their sticky dew. They can catch bigger prey like houseflies or crane flies and can slowly curl their leaves around these larger bugs to make better contact. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. When grown outdoors, they will catch plenty of food. When grown indoors, they will significantly benefit from a foliar fertilizer. Plants grown outdoors will appreciate a foliar feed as well. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can. Watch as the Drosera slowly curl their leaves after a foliar fertilizer application!
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
The dewy pine is a fascinating and beautiful plant. Even in the middle of the hot, dry Spanish summers, this plant can be found in full sun covered with glistening droplets of mucilage. How it manages to stay dripping with dew even without an obvious water source is a complete mystery! They form lovely, glistening, bushy plants with delightful sunny yellow flowers. Better still, they smell faintly of honey!
Drosophyllum have a reputation for being tricky to grow, and their care has some nuance. They are very different than all other carnivorous plants! They are Mediterranean plants and do best in similar climates. They do not like high humidity combined with high heat and cannot tolerate extreme cold. Dewy Pines are more challenging to grow because they do not like to sit in water and require careful watering as they do not like to be overwatered. We’ve made several videos on our YouTube channel and included detailed instructions below to help you! While they can be slightly harder to grow, they are so beautiful, aromatic, and delightful that it’s absolutely worth it! Read up on their care or watch our Ultimate Dewy Pine Care Guide!
They should be potted immediately into an 8" clay pot; watch our video guide to potting them! After removing the packaging, gently pull the peat pot out of the plastic pot it was shipped in. Plant the peat pot directly into the mix; it will break down quickly. This allows you to avoid disturbing the roots.
You can order our pre-made dewy pine mix or make your own. An ideal mix is 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part pumice, 1 part sand, maybe some lava if you have it.
Care Instructions:
Growth Habit: Dewy pines are grown as bushy annuals or short-lived perennials. In the wild, they can grow 3 feet across, but they usually grow to 12-18” tall in cultivation. Lower leaves will die back as the plant ages, and new leaves will grow in as the plant grows outward. You can trim these old leaves back, but you do not need to, and the old leaves can provide some protection for seedlings growing from seeds dropped by flowers. The leaves will often grow shorter and broader in winter. These plants readily flower, sometimes as early as a year old, and can die after flowering if not adequately dried out between watering. They will make seeds from their sunny, bright yellow flowers and do not need to be pollinated. These are short-lived perennials, but they often produce young plants from the mother plant as it dies. Older, larger plants can flump over as they become more top-heavy. The stems are usually darkly colored and woody.
Sun: Full sun. These plants do best outdoors in most areas. If you live somewhere very hot like Arizona, you will want to grow them in the morning sun only with protection from the afternoon sun. These are hard plants to grow indoors and should be grown under lights on a 10-12 hour day length if grown indoors. Grow lights should be 6-12” above the plants, depending on the strength of the light.
Water: Use the tray method to water young plants. For the first 6-8 months, they should be kept damp during the warmest parts of spring, summer, and fall. As they approach maturity, they should no longer sit in water for long periods. In the spring and summer, large plants should be allowed to dry slightly before you water again. Do not allow them to dry out so much that wilting occurs, but the soil can get surprisingly dry before this happens. Wilting will damage roots and set the plant back. Remove the trays and hand water during the winter and early spring, when it is both cool and the photo periods are shorter. When your plant is experiencing rain in winter, be sure to dry your plant out well between watering. Flowering plants should be kept a bit drier; when you plant flowers, they will die if kept too wet. Dewy pines do not like high humidity combined with heat and will have increased chances of rot in those conditions.
Temperature and Dormancy: Dewy Pines are Mediterranean natives. Their ideal range is 30-100F, but they can tolerate brief freezes if not sitting in water and brief heat waves up to 115 if well watered. These plants do not need or experience a winter dormancy. They can be grown easily outdoors year-round in California and the Southwest or anywhere else with hot, dry summers and rainy winters. You will want to protect them from the afternoon sun in the hottest parts of the Southwest. They can take light frost and brief freezes. They should be brought in or protected during long freezes below 20 F. Ours plants take night time temps of 20 F without damage, as long as it warms back up during the day, over 40 F. Dewy pines do not like high humidity combined with heat and will have increased chances of rot in those conditions, if you live somewhere BOTH very hot AND humid you may struggle to grow Dewy Pines successfully.
Soil and Repotting: You can order our pre-made dewy pine mix or make your own. An ideal mix is 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part pumice, 1 part sand, and optionally, 1 part small-sized, rinsed lava rock. Dewy pines are susceptible to having their roots disturbed and will likely die if their large, long tap root is damaged or disturbed. Because of this, we ship seedlings at a small size when they are easiest to transplant. They are shipped in a peat pot inside a plastic pot. Remove the peat pot from the plastic pot and plant the peat pot into your 8-12” terracotta pot. Do not try to remove the plant from the peat pot. Dewy pines prefer to be potted into an oversized terracotta pot. Do not repot your plant ever.
Feeding and Fertilizer: Drosophyllum catch small insects in their sticky mucilage. Over time, their leaves will produce enzymes to digest the nutrients from the bug, absorbing them through their leaves, leaving only the exoskeleton on their sticky leaves. There’s no need to remove these as they often serve as a lure to other insects looking for an easy meal. These plants will appreciate a foliar feed. Apply MaxSea fertilizer once per month to the foliage only. Dilute 1/4 teaspoon of MaxSea into one gallon of water with a mister bottle or a watering can.
More Information: For further information on dormancy, repotting, growing from seed, and more, check out our website or our YouTube channel.
This fantastic flytrap design is one in our limited-edition series, hand drawn by fine artist, and former California Carnivores horticulturist, Kate Halpin. Kate's designs are meticulously modeled off of some our favorite plants, and each one is elevated exceptional!
Venus flytraps are perhaps the most iconic of all carnivorous plants. Beware their wide-open mouths, eager for a meal! This design combines the vicious nature of flytraps with their surprising beauty! This is the perfect design for you if you spend your free time re-potting, obsessively photographing your plant collection and spending time out in the sun with a watering can in one hand and an iced coffee in the other.
This beautiful flytrap design is one in our limited-edition series, hand drawn by fine artist, and former California Carnivores horticulturist, Kate Halpin. Kate's designs are meticulously modeled off of some our favorite plants, and each one is elevated exceptional!
This shirt ships directly from the printer and will not ship from California Carnivores. Please note, that if you order this along with plants, you can expect to receive two separate shipments.
The 100% cotton unisex classic tee will help you land a more structured look. It sits nicely, maintains sharp lines around the edges, and goes perfectly with layered streetwear outfits. Plus, it's extra trendy now!
• 100% cotton
• Sport Grey is 90% cotton, 10% polyester
• Ash Grey is 99% cotton, 1% polyester
• Heather colors are 50% cotton, 50% polyester
• Fabric weight: 5.0–5.3 oz/yd² (170-180 g/m²)
• Open-end yarn
• Tubular fabric
• Taped neck and shoulders
• Double seam at sleeves and bottom hem
• Blank product sourced from Honduras, Nicaragua, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Bangladesh, Mexico
Disclaimers:
• Due to the fabric properties, the White color variant may appear off-white rather than bright white.
• Dark color speckles throughout the fabric are expected for the color Natural.
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it takes us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions!
Size guide
| LENGTH (inches) | WIDTH (inches) | SLEEVE LENGTH (inches) | |
| S | 28 | 18 | 15 ⅝ |
| M | 29 | 20 | 17 |
| L | 30 | 22 | 18 ½ |
| XL | 31 | 24 | 20 |
| 2XL | 32 | 26 | 21 ½ |
| 3XL | 33 | 28 | 22 ¾ |
This fantastic flytrap design is one in our limited-edition series, hand drawn by fine artist, and former California Carnivores horticulturist, Kate Halpin. Kate's designs are meticulously modeled off of some our favorite plants, and each one is elevated exceptional!
Venus flytraps are perhaps the most iconic of all carnivorous plants. Beware their wide-open mouths, eager for a meal! This design combines the vicious nature of flytraps with their surprising beauty! This is the perfect design for you if you spend your free time re-potting, obsessively photographing your plant collection and spending time out in the sun with a watering can in one hand and an iced coffee in the other.
This beautiful flytrap design is one in our limited-edition series, hand drawn by fine artist, and former California Carnivores horticulturist, Kate Halpin. Kate's designs are meticulously modeled off of some our favorite plants, and each one is elevated exceptional!
This shirt ships directly from the printer and will not ship from California Carnivores. Please note, that if you order this along with plants, you can expect to receive two separate shipments.
Investing in the youth classic tee means investing in a wardrobe staple that effortlessly combines quality, affordability, and versatility. Elevate your kids’ wardrobes with a t-shirt that keeps up with their adventures.
• 100% cotton
• Sport Grey is 90% cotton, 10% polyester
• Fabric weight: 5.3 oz./yd² (180 g/m²)
• Pre-shrunk fabric
• Classic fit
• Taped neck and shoulders
• Tear-away tag
• Made with OEKO-TEX certified low-impact dyes
• Blank product sourced from the Dominican Republic, Honduras, Haiti, Nicaragua, or El Salvador
Disclaimer: Due to the fabric properties, the White color variant may appear off-white rather than bright white.
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it takes us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions!
Size guide
| LENGTH (inches) | CHEST (inches) | |
| XS | 20 ½ | 16 |
| S | 22 | 17 |
| M | 23 ½ | 18 |
| L | 25 | 19 |
| XL | 26 ½ | 20 |
The Flytrap Fairy Garden Gnome lives in the flytrap bog, collecting beautiful leaves to make his winter wreath. This design was created by our very own Nikayla!
Bring charm to your home with a glossy ceramic ornament available in heart, star, snowflake, or circle shapes. With a smooth finish and elegant gold-toned string, it stands out in any festive setting.
This product ships directly from the printer and will not ship from California Carnivores. Please note, that if you order this along with plants, you can expect to receive two separate shipments.
• 100% ceramic
• Circle-shaped diameter: 2.76″ (7 cm)
• Heart-shaped size: 3.11″ × 2.9″ (7.9 cm × 7.37 cm)
• Star-shaped size: 3.19″ × 2.68″ (8.1 cm × 6.8 cm)
• Snowflake-shape size: 2.17″ × 3″ (5.5 cm × 7.62 cm)
• Ornament thickness: 0.125″ (3 mm)
• Glossy finish
• White backing
• Gold-colored string included
• Blank product sourced from China
The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! (Daniela calls them little hippos because their bulbous growth looks like a herd of little hippo faces).
Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal!
Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed
The charismatic ant ferns are an exciting and fun house plant to add to your collection! Though they are not carnivorous, they are weird and we love weird! Grow these as companions to your Nepenthes! This species looks like a little sea creature! Lecanopteris lomaroides is from Modayag and are especially nice because the rhizome turns a beautiful bruise blue black in bright light!
Small plants are 1-2” across and medium are 2-4” across, some parts of the rhizome may turn black, that is totally normal!
Care Instructions
Sun: Grow on sunny windowsills with at least three hours of direct sun, in greenhouses, or in a terrarium with fluorescent light
Water: Water with distilled or purified water frequently, do not let the pots sit in water for long periods of time but be sure to keep the potting medium moist all the time
Temperature: Daytime temperatures in the 70’s-80’s with a 10-20 degree drop in night temps
Dormancy: none needed
Lilium iridollae is a beautiful companion plant to bog growing carnivorous plants. Native to the southeastern coastal plain, it grows in the same conditions as Sarracenia. In some regions it is known as the “Panhandle Lily” or the “Pot of Gold Lily”.
These lilies can grow to six feet tall with a single, large flower that hangs down! The flowers can range in color from orange to pale yellow. They are truly stunning when they bloom and are an amazing addition to any bog garden. Extremely rare in cultivation. And limited in quantity.
These plants die back in winter with no visible growth until late spring or summer. If you order in winter or early spring, expect to see NO GROWTH yet.
Care Instructions
Sun: Full sun outdoors
Water: Always sitting in at least two inches of distilled or purified water
Temperature: 20 degrees - 80 degrees, can even take temperatures from freezing to 100 degrees but only for short periods
Dormancy: None needed.
This is the all purpose fertilizer for your carnivorous plant collection. It is a nice, mild, kelp-based food that won't burn your plants. We use MaxSea in the nursery and the plants love it! Even the live sphagnum thrives with MaxSea!
It can be used on all carnivorous plants (except Pinguicula) at a dilution of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. Lightly mist the leaves of the plants once a month for best results.
This is a 4 ounce jar of MaxSea 16-16-16 fertilizer.
We recommend against using this for the Pinguicula and instead recommend using Schultz Cactus Fertilizer.
Nepenthes ( densiflora x aristolochioides ) x ( robcantleyi x hamata ) CalCarn Clone Potted
Nepenthes ( densiflora x aristolochioides ) x ( robcantleyi x hamata ) CalCarn Clone Potted
Nepenthes ( densiflora x aristolochioides ) x ( robcantleyi x hamata ) is a new hybrid from the CalCarn lab! We are entirely in love with these cute little tubby pitchers! They have a charming, tapered sausage shape with upside-down, heart-shaped peristomes! The pitchers are speckled red with vivid peristomes, and we’re very excited to see them grow out!
They are from the CalCarn tissue culture lab, and there are multiple clones.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
This is a lovely hybrid and is a specific clone selected from amongst many for its amazing two-tone peristome. We are obsessed with these large, tubby pitchers, upright lids and unbelievable peristome!
These are tissue culture plants from the best selected clone from Borneo Exotics, BE-3959. Sometimes the leaves will have splotchy red coloration, this is totally normal!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Nepenthes ( platychila x veitchii ) x ( glandulifera x veitchii ) CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
Nepenthes ( platychila x veitchii ) x ( glandulifera x veitchii ) CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
The parent in this is one of our favorite crosses! Nepenthes veitchii x platychila hangs in a prominent display in our nursery and never fails to impress. It has delicately fluted pitchers with wide, flaring colorful peristomes. We’ve crossed this spectacular stripey peristome with another famous peristome from our glandulifera x veitchii!
The first photo is of both parents in the cross, followed by the Nepenthes veitchii x platychila. The third photo shows the glandulifera x veitchii used in this hybrid.
We expect these to have exceptional color and peristomes! They are seed-grown from CalCarn.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Nepenthes ( x ‘Peter D’Amato’ ) x edwardsiana “Giant” CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
$ 224.99
Unit price perNepenthes ( x ‘Peter D’Amato’ ) x edwardsiana “Giant” CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
$ 224.99
Unit price perNepenthes ( x ‘Peter D’Amato’ ) x edwardsiana “Giant” is a brand new CalCarn cross! This is a dream cross, combining the fantastic, iconic toothiness of Nepenthes edwardsiana with the huge, open-mouthed, beautifully mottled pitchers of ‘Peter D’Amato’! Nepenthes x ‘Peter D’Amato’ is a carefully selected clone of ventricosa x lowii, which adds the ease of growth of ventricosa to this hybrid!
The seedlings already have beautiful little red pitchers, and we expect them to be weird and wonderful, especially with the two infamous parents used in this cross!
These are all seed grown individuals and this is not in TC so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering. We have very few of these.
The first three photos are of the parents in the cross.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Nepenthes alata is a great Nepenthes for the beginner. It is an ideal candidate for hanging in a sunny window. With proper care, it will grow quickly and each pitcher will be bigger than the last as the vine grows longer and longer!
These are tissue culture plants from over seas and were not sure if they’re pure alata or cantata x alata but either way, they’re a beautiful and easy to grow plant!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Nepenthes burbidgeae is an iconic pitcher plant! Graceful, perfectly shaped and a mix of creamy white and brick red; this is one of the all-time most beautiful Nepenthes! This is the perfect design for you if like botanical prints, a hot cup of tea, deep-diving Nepenthes phylogeny and hand-writing all of your plant tags.
This beautiful Nepenthes burbidgeae design is one in our limited-edition series, hand drawn by fine artist, and former California Carnivores horticulturist, Kate Halpin. Kate's designs are meticulously modeled off of some our favorite plants, and each one is elevated exceptional!
The 100% cotton unisex classic tee will help you land a more structured look. It sits nicely, maintains sharp lines around the edges, and goes perfectly with layered streetwear outfits. Plus, it's extra trendy now!
This shirt ships directly from the printer and will not ship from California Carnivores. Please note, that if you order this along with plants, you can expect to receive two separate shipments.
• 100% cotton
• Sport Grey is 90% cotton, 10% polyester
• Ash Grey is 99% cotton, 1% polyester
• Heather colors are 50% cotton, 50% polyester
• Fabric weight: 5.0–5.3 oz/yd² (170-180 g/m²)
• Open-end yarn
• Tubular fabric
• Taped neck and shoulders
• Double seam at sleeves and bottom hem
• Blank product sourced from Honduras, Nicaragua, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Bangladesh, Mexico
Disclaimers:
• Due to the fabric properties, the White color variant may appear off-white rather than bright white.
• Dark color speckles throughout the fabric are expected for the color Natural.
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it takes us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions!
Size guide
| LENGTH (inches) | WIDTH (inches) | SLEEVE LENGTH (inches) | |
| S | 28 | 18 | 15 ⅝ |
| M | 29 | 20 | 17 |
| L | 30 | 22 | 18 ½ |
| XL | 31 | 24 | 20 |
| 2XL | 32 | 26 | 21 ½ |
| 3XL | 33 | 28 | 22 ¾ |
| 4XL | 34 | 30 | 24 ¼ |
| 5XL | 35 | 32 | 25 ¼ |
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. This species will appreciate added humidity, humidity over 70% is ideal.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 60-80, with a 10 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 85 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. This species prefers cooler temps and higher humidity at all times. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Nepenthes glandulifera x edwardsiana “Giant” CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
Nepenthes glandulifera x edwardsiana “Giant” CalCarn Seed-Grown Potted
Nepenthes glandulifera x edwardsiana is a brand new CalCarn cross! Our Nepenthes edwardsiana “Giant” is one of the nicest examples of the species in cultivation! Each distinguished pitcher is lined with shaped hooks, an iconic peristome! We’ve combined this with one of our favorite Nepenthes species, glandulifera. Glandulifera has beautiful wide-open peristomes and mottled pitchers, but the best part of glandulifera is the fine hairs covering the plant! We’re so excited to see all the variations coming out of a cross like this; each seed-grown plant will be a unique treasure!
The seedlings already have beautiful little red pitchers, and we expect them to become nice, compact plants with those spectacular Eddie-like pitchers that everyone wants these days!
These are all seed-grown individuals and are not in TC, so don’t miss out on this exciting but limited offering.
The first three photos are of the parents in the cross.
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% but can do very well in household conditions without increased humidity if watered regularly. Any added humidity will be enjoyed by your plant! Too little humidity is the second most likely cause of poor pitcher formation.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
Care Instructions
Growth Habit: Nepenthes are vines and start small; as the plant grows, each leaf will be larger than the last, as will the pitchers that develop from these leaves. It is normal for the pitchers and leaves to die back over time. As leaves and pitchers die back, the plant will continue to vine, turning brown and woody along the stem. Over time, these form large, sprawling vines that can be hung in baskets or trellised upright in large pots. Nepenthes have thin, black roots, and not many of them.
Sun: Nepenthes should be grown on a sunny windowsill where the plant receives direct light for at least four hours daily. Grow in a cooled greenhouse in full sun, but we recommend 30% shade cloth overhead in summer. Grow in a terrarium or shelf under grow lights for the best color and pitcher formation. When grown under lights, lights should be on a 10-12 hour day length, and the plants can be grown six to ten inches from the light, depending on the strength of the light. Poor pitcher formation is usually a sign of not enough light.
Water & Humidity: Water frequently with distilled, reverse osmosis, or rainwater. Do not let the pots sit in water for long periods. You can water from the bottom, fill trays with water, and let the plant dry out for a few days before watering again. Be careful not to dry the plants out completely. Watering overhead occasionally is also beneficial for the plants. Nepenthes appreciate humidity of at least 60% and this species will do best with high humidity.
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be in the 70s-80s, with a 10-20 degree drop in night temperatures. Never expose your plants to temperatures below 40 degrees or above 90 degrees, as this can damage or kill them. Nepenthes do best indoors and should not be grown outdoors in most areas unless you have very mild temperatures.
Dormancy: Nepenthes do not have a dormancy as they are tropical plants, but they can slow down growth in winter when photo periods shorten.
Fertilizer: Apply diluted Maxsea fertilizer once or twice a month to the leaves and inside the pitchers. Slow-release osmocote pellets can be added to the pitchers along with a bit of distilled water. Small pitchers may burn back upon feeding, but this will still greatly benefit the plant with nutrients. Small insects can also be fed to pitchers.
Soil & Repotting: Nepenthes should be grown in a mix of long-fibered New Zealand sphagnum moss, orchid bark, pumice, and perlite. We have all of our custom Nepenthes soil blends available to add to your order, but you do not need to repot your plant for at least a year after receiving it from us. Nepenthes appreciate frequent repotting every three years and only move to a slightly bigger pot.
More Information: For more information on repotting, pests, growing habits, and more, check out our FAQ page or our YouTube channel!
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